Search results

Second that.

Try a fein multimaster or the Bosch multi tool. It'll take a while and you'll go through a few blades. Alternatively try a door saw (door trimmer) or the Dewalt plunge saw. They won't get right into the corners though.

15mm thick not recommended as structual floor - 18mm minimum. If the boards are pretty flat use 6mm ply.

Basement as in below ground level? Test the base of the walls to check moisture content as well as the boards. Check the humidity as well. Quite common for below ground areas to have moisture trouble and normally solid wood's not recommended - engineered only and then if moisture / humidity...

One of these http://www.f-ball.co.uk/product_detail.asp?product=Digital%20Hygrometer&catID=damp Test with a handheld meter first to get an indication (tramex / protimeter) then use boxes. You can use a protimeter hygromaster with sleeves that are inset into holes in the concrete but the...

definetly sounds like moisture is the cause of the problem - have you got a decent moisture meter - if so test the content of the area and compare it to the rest of the floor, if its got wet it'll show up and it's easy to show the customer.

Looking at the photo it seems that there is a peak in the chipboard and a void to either side under the laminate (gap between the laminate and underlay) - if this is the case then it will spring as you walk over it.

Quickstep Elegance

If its thick enough you can undercut it but only take 5-7mm out otherwise it will weaken the support. A few other options are to cut neatly around it leaving a small 2mm gap and use some bona gapmaster sealant, use a scotia or use a thin flat bead.

It's listed as a rustic grade - does it have many filled knots? If so, you could use some hard wax to fill the missing section. If you can find out which oil has been used you can sand down the high spot, fill the missing area and re-oil (with the same brand). As you havesome spare planks try...

Species of wood makes a difference as well. Is the floor secret nailed and if so to what (if chipboard then that won't hold the nails properly and the will work loose). Could have been left to acclimatise while the wet trades were in and its absorbed the moisture, then its dried and shrunk...

Get the builder to check the relative humidity of the slab with a hygrometer box. Some liquid DPM's can be used up to 98% RH.

You'll get splinters! Couldn't resist it.

You can get textured and smooth in the Quickstep ranges, along with realistic looking finishes. You get a variety of board sizes as well. Can't recommend a supplier in west london though its worth going into an independent retailer instead of one of the big "sheds".

You can pay the same if not more for a good quality laminate as an engineered (depending on quality of engeineered - planks are more expensive than a 3-strip). Look for Quickstep or others using uniclic and also Pergo do a good click system. Balterio and Sensa are good quality but the click...

Did you prime the floor first? If the slab you're going over is very absorbent it can suck the moisture out of the smoothing compound to quickly and this will leave you with what look like bubble holes. Priming stops it happening.

Hi, I have an extension to the side/rear of my house which leaves a 12 x 14 area at the front rhs that I'd like to build a workshop in. I'm thinking of using the 2 external walls of the house and extension as 2 sides of the workshop so that I only need to build the other 2 sides and the roof...

Unfortunately your builder isn't a flooring pro. The stuck down vinyl should be taken up, both sides should have been primed and then leveling compound applied. There are some compounds which can be used without priming but your builder has probably used a Wickes water based one (or similar)...

Are you refering to loose tounges?

Buy some "gripfill". Make sure the floors dust free, bead of adhesive on the floor,bead on the bottome of the bar (the very bottom bit that sitsin the track), push together and weight down overnight.