Search results

why would you mess around with a pump when you could just stick in an electric shower for less money and hassel :? you will still need a part p quald sparky though

I always stick a hep on just to be on the safe side, nothing worse than letting a full basin out and a load of smelly hairs coming back into your shower. and the run should be fine providing the gradient is kept

You need to make sure when sealing the area has been cleaned fully, with white spirit so the sealent can adhear to the surface proparly. just have a good check for any holes in the sealent and also check the sides of the cubicle and the screen have been sealed, does any water come out onto...

drain down an upstairs rad and add to that, then bring back upto preasure and check around. it should give you instructions on the bottle you get also Also whos he?? a plumber or heating engineer?

2 options, get it flushed by a proper firm should take a good few hours if done right. or drain fully and add a full bottle of inhibitor, and see how you go. (cheaper option) all rads will get gunked up after time.

never enough tools, but i think Softus has covered a good all round their. always carry some spare fibre washers, rubber washer, o-rings, compression fittings, push-fit caps as mentiond, pushfit fittings, some spare copper fittings, flexi hoses, isolator valves, silicone greese (has come in...

16 mm is recomended, but anything to do with changing electrics you will need a part p qualified sparky in to do so and get the work signed off. it won't be legal if you need to change the wiring, and why you'd want to risk it when you can get a cable put in professionally, and safly.

yeah i was on about free phone minutes and complaining old gits who have nothing better to do :wink:

you did one better than me, i broke some guys jaw who knocked me off my bike once as he pratically just stopped whilst turning across the road. crappy thing to do like but loads of stuff flashed through my head very quickly. Agree with Softus about the newspapers which is why i never buy...

does the soil pipe go outside or is it internal? if you want the cistern right upto the wall it would be better to replace it with plastic and come straight through the wall if it's external, or from the stack if its internal, with the pipe right upto the wall otherwise use either a swan neck...

why not just use normal valves then? or the currant valves that are in place?

see what size cable is supplying your currant one, 7.5 - 10 watt on 10mm cable, check what watt your currant shower is

mmmmmmmm peggy

no neither would i, just insulate and cover.

i must of took five trips to local merchants one day as i kept forgetting everything. and i had eveything back home and was having to pay stupid prices :cry: bad day that was

first places i'd check is where the float valve sticks out the bottom of the WC, where the cold supply to the WC is, these usually leak and i've seen a few which have gone unnoticed until it comes down the walls underneath. just stick you finger on the tap connector and see if theirs a bit...

it does seem to be a reoccuance Softus. davphi338 i can see your reason for thinking that, but you should of spoke to someone before doing it as you may be posting a few more help topics in a few days time :?

replace with decent ones, like HepV0

quality, some people really have too many free minutes