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i took 7 tiles off the wall that had been "dot dabbed" about 3 weeks ago and they came of riduculasly easy, and as gcol has said spreading the weight over the surface area makes a lot more sense. also i wouldnt imagine drilling would be too good, if you drill a hollow spot you got a better...

youve just been given 2 options, do you expect to be able to do it without any tools? :? well the first option you could

isnt that what spotty teenagers drink? :lol:

you will have to leave the hot tap open until it drains the tank unless youve got a bung kit, or if the gate valve coming from the tank works turn that off if it has one make sure pipes are dry before trying to solder otherwise use compression

becuase theyve been put in wrong :? which sides the hot on?

the only good thing about them is they look good. their crap at owt else, rot easily and usually come with a load of ion filings inside to start you off

have them acessible then? if your concerned the pipes are going to be too close together then as suggested you will need to space them to stop bacterial growth like leagonela, you will have to either put them in flexible piped conduit, or have them lagged, then covered over. if their not...

you sure it wasn't excess flux?

you mean something like plumbers maite? or silicone sealent? as for how much on your basin, if its plumbers mate just make some worms and spread them around the top of the pedistall. most people use it on bath wastes, MI's will often advise it as well, as for the WC, if it's screwed to...

if youve drilled the pilot hole, screw the plug onto the end of your screw a bit, and tap it in place with a hammer, then screw it in :wink: usually dry wall screws.

:? take it off the wall if you want the job doing properly, otherwise the weight of the plaster could pull it all off. or its thats too hard to do, re-board the walls

i was going to ask the same question, as ive noticed some guy do the same on a job im about to take over. thanks gcol

if its a concrete floor i wouldnt of thought their would be pipes through it, apart from waste, you could leave the floor as it is, and take feeds from your kitchen. it depends on the finish you want, as for a figure get some quotes, and read the rules :wink: number 9 especially

have you told the installer about the problems?

get your hand down and see if you can feel anything, (with a glove on) or get a set of rods to try and push the blokage down, if its further down you might have to get someone out

close off both rad valves, counting the number of turns for the lockshiled valve. vent any air/preasure out of it until the water stops running then get a few towels, and a shallow tray and undo one of the nuts on the rad and let it drain into the tub undo other nut, remove rad and turn...

the swan neck noseall pointed out

does this make it any easier? http://home.howstuffworks.com/toilet4.htm you cant always see the internal overflow, just check the packet to check it does have one built in. and on the dudley it tells you on here how the internal siphon works at the bottom of the page...

a shame it isnt 25 quid to get corgi then and they could of done it :shock:

if your replacing it yourself it wil cost the cost of materials and thats it, usually 2 new gate valves which cost http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=19987&ts=99241 if your getting someone in to do it, what ever they charge :wink: