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No it should go into the overflow pipe and drain outside, before it reaches the handle. You can just fit a siphon with an internal overflow in a new toilet and set it to flush on full at 6 litres. to do away with having pipe coming out of your wall..

is it replacing an old one? providing the isolating valves work, which from what ive done is not common, then about an hours work, depending if it needs draining a bit. wouldn't of thought more than £125

carefully break the pan to get it out, get rid of any excess bits from around the waste pipe. get one of these http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=102642&ts=89214&id=15330

is you pipe so close to the wall that you cant use one of these http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=A335535&ts=09586&id=29457 you could also use brown paper, i heard it works better for toilet situations

You would be better off ringing a few companys and getting some quotes, maybe get a combi installed by a corgi registered engineer, also keep the fires maybe replace with new ones as they are excellent focal points. as for the figures it all depends on well, just how much you want to spend.

If your laying new from the manifold then i'd personally do it in 15mm, i personally hate microbore, it easily gets air locks and can easily kink, 8mm especially. it will save less hasel in the long run

i was talking about this bit , but it thats ok then the only other thing i could think of was the anlge on the waste pipe been too steep??

ok might sound like a simple question, but the overflow hose connecter isn't upside down is it? as ive seen them put on the wrong way and leak before.

so how does that work then? surly if they can reach the taps they can reach them both :? i always do it hot on left unless it's a straight swap then it stays as it was

can conect to existing supply, will be a few hours work depending on how acesible the exsisting pipework is, and putting new pipes in the wall

should be ok once it's installed you can leave access just incase of any future problems and no they don't smell the point of them is to stops smells coming from the stack.

thought you was on about one of the hoses, has it got a rubber o-ring or washer on the bottom of the tap that you can see? if it has it might be a case that its not seated correctly or if it has then it will need one.

if you want an isolater with a handle get one of these http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=100121&ts=26683&id=16505 a gate valve is a bit ott, the flexi hoses with built in iso valves are ok but i would recomend getting a seperate one as above.

you will have to take the tap out and tighten up the 2 flexi hoses, or the one which is leaking. it may even need the o-ring replacing

you can cut with a hacksaw, just file the edges down after youve done so and you could do with de-buring the bits of metal inside as well. once you done that just and water is back on ( with iso off) just turn on iso valve to blast some water out and any bits in the pipe. and as for where...

scratch the pipe with a key if it leaves a nice shiney silver line on it then it's lead, also the shape of lead pipe is fairly distinctive it's not as perfectly round as copper and it's thicker. As for health problems, you should at least run your tap a good 30 seconds before using it for...

have fun, let us know how you get on :wink:

and will also crack you plaster if you do not put them in conduit :( if your putting pipes behind it would be best to stud out, if you get your battons level then the wall should be nice and plumb, plus it's less messy :wink:

was the board on a differant level to the others didyou notice? just mention it to the builder if you not happy, better doing it now before he's gone and u can't get him back

Brilliant guide, gcol should get it put on ebay for 99p a time as an ebook :lol: a few pictures, honestly it's a great guide thanks