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it's not just customer service it's better quality parts, but it sounds like youve made up your mind about which to get :wink: i would still speak to a sparky before installing though. not really worth a probably is it :?:

about 40mm, say about 30mm for each side for the pipe to sit into, their should be a bit of give on the pipe in the floor also. maybe you should get someone out to do the work you want doing, might be easier

turn off water at mains, or on isolator valves if they have been installed. open taps undo nut connecting taps, expect a bit of water undo nut holding taps to the sink and remove taps. replace with new taps, doing everything in the opposite. If they are monoblock taps screw in the hoses...

what rating was your old one? if it was lower you would be better speaking to a sparky about installing it, you may have to change the cable, which needs a part p qualified sparky to do so. But as for the makes go for the Mira, your paying for the customer care and quality, and they are...

it you didn't want to move the pipe under the boards (which would be by far the easiest) then you could centre the rad inbetween both the pipes and make 2 equal bends so that both sides match, instead of it looking "ugly" as chris said

:? youve lost me with the diagnol bit, you could post a pic to be a bit more descriptive.

silicone should be enough plus the weight of the sink to hold it down

you mean somthing like this? http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=102636&ts=89550&id=17552 if your putting in a new rad and some new straight valves, which i'd presume you would be, it would be just as easy to use some pipe :shock:

If your changing the WC it will need an iso valve on even if you don't put one on any of the others.

Because the Holes for the valves on the towel rad are on the bottom, where as on a normal rad they are on the side, have a look at a picture of a towel rad

fit them upto about 500 mm below where the applience is going to go, then use flexy hoses to connect the appliences. just ensure they are accesible when everythings inplace, if the shutoff screw is facing the wall it's no good really

replace them, get some plastic ones from any local merchants. why both risk it for the sake of a few quid

stopcock you mean this http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=100121&ts=19712&id=17884 or this http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=100121&ts=19745&id=67670 best thing would be to do if the one in the living room is out of the question, is tell the neighbourghs...

to remove the rad you just have to close off the valves and drain the rad, but if your replaceing the valves you will have to drain down. best thing for the pipe is to adjust the pipes under the floor boards to come straight upto the towel rad, or bend the pipes above floor level, but the...

read a book :roll:

just let the taps run for a while until all the exess flux has come out

youve kind of contradicted yourself in the post after this :roll: as softus said if he's acting within the law then why not, he needs to learn if we all knew everything about everything it would get dull, as somones tag says, "were all still learning"

agree with Tony about triton, i fitted one of their showers and it was a pain in the bum, poor design. then again customer bought it so i had to just comply :cry:

look on the manufacturers website or Fit taps first one rod should be allready be inplace on the bottom of the waste if not usually the shorter rod screws into the hole at the bottom of the waste. The other rod slides down the back of the taps, and connects to the rod on the bottom...

do you have an internal stack? if the joist are running in your favour and if you can get the right angle on the pipe then under the floor probably would be best as the toilet is obviously deisgned for everything to be concealed and look neat