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Anyone?! :wink:

Ordinarily i'd agree but there is no space for a 50 gallon. The hatch is one side, roof at the top and the central heating tanks are the other. Major work involved and questionable joist strength. Any ideas on rough showering time and if the equalising valve idea will work?

See i agreed with most of what you said but then the bodge statement comes out. You know nothing about me and i you. If you are an electrician you are probably crap by all accounts. Now that's obviously an unproven statement so don't assume diy means bodge. Plenty qualified sparkies bodge...

I have a 100 litre hot water cylinder and a 25 gallon cold tank and have bought 2 mixer showers to install in seperate bathrooms, they will not be used at the same time. I was planning on fitting a single impeller pump and an equalising valve so i could use the hot cylinder off a surrey flange...

Fair point but i shall continue to diy in my house. And things are safe, an electrician happily inspects/tests what I have done so all is well there. However i'm not going to continue discussing this here because there will be no resolvement. I believe things have gone over the top and...

You would first need to check whether you have a combi boiler or not. Then if you do then a pump supplying a mixer shower is no good. The combi already contains a pump and I don't believe you can pump a combi's hot water or mains cold water. Try and find out and post here what boiler you...

Lol, can think of quite a number who would think the same about you. Chances are if you get on my nerves you'll be getting on plently more peoples nerves. Remember this is a diy site, treat it as such or join a professional electrical forum.

Don't wish to upset anyone so don't start your pretentious ranting at me please. I basically don't agree with what the regs say and if i want to add a socket to a ring protected by earth and mcb then i shall do it no matter what room it is in. If you don't agree that's fine, i don't expect any...

So If i got an electrican in to add a socket in a room such as a kitchen and i only had mcbs they would have to do loads of other work just to add it such as changing an mcb for rcbo or if not then some other long winded solutions, running new circuit if needed etc etc. Is that really the rules...

I will do that then. I will drill and plug a hole in a spare hole of the backbox. Insert a brass screw with a wide head and wrap the earth around that and tighten down. I don't want to remove the box, it will ruin plaster and create lots of work. When renovating an entire house that is not...

Ok, when you say lug are you meaning the two attachment points for the faceplate? There is a fixed lug on the left side, the right hand side slides up and down. So If i just earth the faceplate and screw it to the wall everything including the screws is earthed then? Just concerned because...

Hi guys, I am helping an electrican to re-wire my two light circuits due to there being no earths. The metal back boxes are existing and fine to use but they have no earth connector in them. I normally connect to the back box earth screw and then on to the faceplate with no breaks in the...

That has to be rubbish surely. I would get him to connect it to a high amp rating junction box that would be accessible under the kitchen plinth in order to extend the cable that way. If the cable size is correct then it's madness to re-wire it. In fact I wouldn't allow him to do it and...

Is the ticking normal then?

lol, countdown timer! No it makes the noise in standby

That cables rated for 40amps i think. What if you upgrade the shower to a more powerful one? TBH I'd always run a shower radial in 10mm to give you upgrade possibilities.

I've just bought a 11 way volex board with 100amp dp isolator and associated mcbs. Had the same thing in my last place installed new and has been fine. More than happy with the quality and good price. Thinking of getting some RCBO's for certain circuits. Do these slot in even if tight fit...

It's a 6amp mcb. Common for lighting. If i was doing it i would do this myself with the CU main switch off. But suspect others will think an electrician should do it. Up to you really and whether you're competent enough to do it. :wink:

This is something i'd like to know but would help the OP too I would of thought. How can you find out what rating current radiators are, as in BTU values? I can't see it written anywhere, is it done on size calculation?

The lead I can insert into both the tv and sky face plates was the one on the left pictured. I did see both working.