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  1. R

    HONEYWELL ST9400C & ST9500C:

    Thanks for that, you're probably right again! But I've got the other programmer so may as well try it. I've got a multimeter but I'm not too handy with it! (I've just been looking at some info with a view to checking the coils on my car - that's initially fairly straightforward, checking the...
  2. R

    HONEYWELL ST9400C & ST9500C:

    Thank you again - I was 99.9% sure you were correct so there was only a small area of doubt! It just wasn't logical that there would be any fundamental difference. Regards. PS I'm hoping a new programmer will solve my underlying problem which is I can't have CH and HW on at the same time. This...
  3. R

    HONEYWELL ST9400C & ST9500C:

    I raised this query with Honeywell some time ago and did eventually receive two replies. The first advised that I replace my programmer with the same model which is a statement of the obvious and did not really address my query. The second reply said both programmers are 2-channels and just...
  4. R

    HONEYWELL ST9400C & ST9500C:

    Thanks for your advice. I hadn't looked at the wiring diagrams but assumed they would be similar (or identical) and that both control 2 motorised valves (for either 2 zones, or CH & HW). And now I know which is which! Thanks again. Regards.
  5. R

    HONEYWELL ST9400C & ST9500C:

    Hi all - My existing programmer is a Honeywell ST9400C for CH and HW, each circuit having a motorised valve. I wish to replace it and have been offered a ST9500C. I understand this is normally used to control 2 separate heating zones, but in all other respects it seems identical to the ST9400C...
  6. R

    TAP CONNECTOR - FIBRE WASHER SUBSTITUTE:

    Thanks - it must be older than I thought! Something to soften/dissolve bosswhite would've been handy.
  7. R

    TAP CONNECTOR - FIBRE WASHER SUBSTITUTE:

    Thanks for all the useful replies and comments. Hemp and bosswhite was the cause of a problem I had - I'm not sure why that was used when the fitting was meant to be sealed with a washer? When I tried to use a fibre washer the bosswhite had gone rock-hard on the nut threads (which was impossible...
  8. R

    TAP CONNECTOR - FIBRE WASHER SUBSTITUTE:

    Hi - I remember a plumber on this forum suggesting a "washer" for a tap connector could be formed by several wraps of PTFE tape around the threads and extending to form a "washer"at the end - this was in place of the normal fibre washer which couldn't be introduced, or was unavailable at the...
  9. R

    PART 2 TOILET FLOAT VALVE:

    Doesn't say much for your common sense! No wonder you lost your sense of humour. With some people misunderstanding the problem and people like you injecting sarcasm rather than trying to be helpful, it sometimes takes a while to get clear answers.
  10. R

    PART 2 TOILET FLOAT VALVE:

    Done that old chum! And seen guys kneeling on a board in small sewers, shovelling "muck" into trolleys. You tried it?
  11. R

    PART 2 TOILET FLOAT VALVE:

    My dad did - and that's as close as I ever wanted to get.
  12. R

    PART 2 TOILET FLOAT VALVE:

    If you do it for a living, it beats going down the mines - and the pay is a lot better!
  13. R

    PART 2 TOILET FLOAT VALVE:

    Thanks for that. I've got a couple of BuildBase outlets within a few miles (hadn't heard of them before) although I couldn't find that item on their website. Thanks Fireman T. With hindsight, I think you're right and it's probably what I'll do. But initially I didn't realise this "simple" job...
  14. R

    PART 2 TOILET FLOAT VALVE:

    Thanks Nige F, I'd seen that Part 1 valve but I really wanted a Part2! Thanks polesapart - you're probably right. But the existing float valve is so old, a replacement wouldn't have gone amiss. Although, with hindsight, I could've probably revived the existing valve with a £1.50 repair kit! As...
  15. R

    PART 2 TOILET FLOAT VALVE:

    That's interesting, have you got a link to it because I can't find one?? I've certainly seen long tail Part 1 ball valves on eBay (apparently for cattle drinkers). The hard plastic washer is on the Part 2 valve I bought although that part is essentially the same in a Part 1. I don't think it's...
  16. R

    PART 2 TOILET FLOAT VALVE:

    Yes, that's the stuff that was suggested - although it says it's "easy to disassemble with hand tools" but maybe they mean in Mike Tyson's hand?! So I think I'll take your good advice. I've got a down-to-earth old school plumber a few doors away. He freed up my stopcock by manipulation for a...
  17. R

    PART 2 TOILET FLOAT VALVE:

    Thanks again for all your help - makes sense. Someone suggested liquid PTFE which I'd have to progressively apply as I wound the FI onto the valve tail and gradually gained access to more of the thread, though I've no experience of using it. Any thoughts on that hard plastic washer? - seems...
  18. R

    PART 2 TOILET FLOAT VALVE:

    Thanks again for that - I think I know what you mean by a PTFE face washer. But could I in fact use an olive?? Trying it "off-site" (where I can also ensure the olive is not misaligned) it tightens and feels like any compression fitting - but I wasn't sure how it would be under mains water...
  19. R

    PART 2 TOILET FLOAT VALVE:

    Thanks. But I'm talking about the connection of the 1/2" FI to the tail of the float valve (and the fact that there's insufficient tail thread exposed to wind on ptfe tape - hence the query about using an olive). I also said the existing tap connector (soldered onto lead pipe from wall) will not...
  20. R

    PART 2 TOILET FLOAT VALVE:

    Yes, I appreciate that. And as such plumbers are a dying breed my best long-term solution would be to change all water pipes to copper from the stopcock onwards and replace lead waste fittings etc. with plastic. Then I could use any of the various "idiot-proof" products available now. But the...
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