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All well and good but when you get a bag of postcrete that tells you to dig down a spade and a half, a DIY'er tends to follow those instructions. At my old house we errected a fence using postcrete, followed the instructions and had no problems whatsoever. This one ended up wobbly, although I...

Can't really take picture as you can't see what i've done as i've buried it all again. Here's a very rough diagram. I banged the iron right up against the concrete, as it was the concrete moving and not the post. So far i've only done my side of the fence and haven't added any more...

I'd have to agree with that, CH wiring isn't really complicated but some people just never seem to get their heads around it. When I first finished my apprentceship I had this free book that was printed by Honeywell, they had a pile of them in our office, it's all I ever needed to get my head...

Why is it that as soon as you venture out of town, you always end up finding things like this? Although I don't think i've ever found anything quite that bad!

Had a go at this as I had a couple of lengths of 1"x1" angle iron left from the old chain link fence koncking about, managed to bang it in to around 1.5M with a club hammer with absolutely no problem whatsoever. Shows how soft the ground is, but it seems to be doing the trick!

Yep!

We've been using the 17th edition boards at work for a few years now, the 100A Main switch disconnects the whole board, then you have two RCD's which control the seperate sides of the split load! In this case there was no seperate Main Switch outside of the CCU, I assume one of the RCD's was...

I went round a friends house the other day to change a few lights, when I got there he showed me he'd had his CCU changed as i'd advised him to a few times. Anyway when I went to switch off the upstairs lights, I noticed it was an MK split load board but with no 100A Main Switch, just two 80A...

I would assume the Main Switch on the original board is on the right and they don't fancy replacing the tails.

Right! Was tired last night when typing that, sorry. Off the top of my head i'd probably run a bit of 4mm armoured down to it, my main concern would be what these outside lights are drawing.

That sounds like a plan, many thanks for your help.

I'd run it directly off the socket in the garage in 2.5mm twin and earth or preferably from the 16A MCB that is spare in your Garage CCU. I'm assuming that it's going to be fixed to the outside of the garage wall?

Cylindrical holes dug out with this boring tool that my neighbour hired, dug down to around 1 1/2 foot as recommended on the pack, it said dig to a depth of 1 1/2 shovel heads.

You normally find the minimum distance from joist in the instructions etc that are supplied with downlights, haven't read my regs book for some time but i'm sure theres nothing in there about it. 50mm seems like plenty but 5mm seems a bit close, it's not something i've ever worried about when...

Around 12 months ago we installed a 6" fence along the side of our garden, we used postcrete following the instructions on the pack but the posts have become wobbly over the winter with all the storms and rain. The postcrete has set well around the posts, the problem seems to be with the soft...

Sorry forgot to answer the second question. I've seen many chippies taking these floors up, the way they do it is with a skillsaw, set it so that it only cut's through the floorboard and not any pipework/cabling etc that runs through the joists (best to check first with a detector). Run the...

Best way is to lift the boards above and wire it in that way. Otherwise the only other option you have is to cut holes in the ceiling either side of each joist, wire in the additional downlights from below, screw the pieces of ceiling back in and then make good and re-dec the ceiling. You...