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Exempt under Class 6 detached outbuildings as under 15 square metres floor area.

Whatever compliance to Part M is I doubt I have it. you don't actual need building regs for outbuilding under 15sq meters anyhow as far as I understand it. Sure you do need electrician to provide external power to the garden. The power will be provided by an armoured SWA cable from the house...

Thanks for the info... some helpful pointers I missed out on. The side room is just garden storage e.g. lawn mower, bike etc. The RCU is low because the SWA cable isn't quite long enough to go up to head height. Obviously electrician could extend this with a junction box inside the wall.

Never suggested it was a DIY job, but getting electrician to route all the cabling, drilling holes in studs etc will take the most amount of their time and is not a necessity in my book. Everything will be left exposed to check and nothing wired in. I was hoping an electrical might just be able...

some advice needed. Before I ask advice I will be getting any wiring signed off and completed by a qualified electrician before connecting to the house mains. I just want to save some time / money by running the cables around the stud frame of my garden office and want some basic advice if...

Looks good. Sure that'll be very warm in winter. Mine's not quite so far ahead

would like to, but it's pretty expensive and also need some sound proofing which celotex doesn't really have. Interesting you've laid timber directly on the concrete. Has the slab been down a while i.e. dried out completely or you used a DPC under the floor joists?

Hi there. I've had some very helpful advice from this forum recently, but need some more if possible. Just wanted to confirm the insulation specs. The plan is currently; Floor 75mm PIR insulation laid directly on concrete with glued battens spanning front to back as a fix for scaffold...

Thanks for advice. Didn't think about UV requirements... that must be the way it's done. Will think about posting in the roofing forum for specifics about the edging detail. Thanks again.

Thanks for your help. I am doing a cold roof, but might put insulation under the joists i.e. before the plasterboard on the warm side, but warm roof will just take up too much height. I wasn't intending on putting membrane above the rafters, just the OSB and EPDM directly on top of that? I've...

Hi, I need some advice if possible on the best type of membrane for a timber framed structure for a garden office. I was going to have the stud wall, membrane, battens, then ply cladding sealed with Osmo oil. Parts of the cladding might be open joint cladding with vertical battens, but am...

Good point. will consider that for the walls. Already got the roof sheets unfortunately.

The internal walls aren't the issue really. Happy to add battens or might use ply as the finished internal wall, but for structural strength the OSB on the roof (before rubber roof) had to meet on a joist and agree with noseall (be good to know where the centres are for future ref):

OK, thanks. Just to confirm 400 centres creates a smaller gap of 355mm so have to trim the insulation too if using celotex or squeeze in if using fibre like rockwool.

Hi, going nuts here a bit. I'm trying to do the dims for my garden office and am doing 5x2 roof joists with firring strips on top for the pitch. I am doing 400mm centres, but this does not seem to work to get the end of the OSB (1220x2440) to end on half the joist. I've read somewhere you do...

I was intending on wrapping the entire walls in waterproof breathable membrane, so the sides should be fairly safe against the rain that may get through, then battens, then stained WBP ply as you say. Maybe sides of the ply would be better off coated in Bitumen if exposed or maybe there is a...

I'm aware there's certain 'basic' levels of ply that would be a no-no, but there's exterior, exterior structural, exterior hard and softwood WBP, and marine ply! Sure if I just go for a decent grade of external WBP and make sure the sides are sealed properly.

I would love charred timber as it looks great and weather hardy, but it's pretty expensive already done, unless I do it myself, but that looks like a very skilled process.

Ok will give this a try. Thanks for your help.

It's been pretty dry for the first 3/4 weeks but has rained a bit recently in the 4/5 week. It's about 80-90mm with DPM and 70mm MOT under that.