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My pet hate with ptfe is getting things like pressure guages to end up the right way, (a touch of OCD perhaps!) seems to take 99 efforts. So try LSX over the top to 'glue' it in place? Cheers Chris.

Agree about the cost Harro but not the other bits. Still, wouldn't it be a dull old life if we all were the same!

Think it goes off quicker, especially in contact with water, and probably to a less pliable consistency.

Their version of Fernox LSX. Nice new compressions shouldn't need it-but when the need for 'belt and braces' occurs, eg new fitting onto old nut and olive, its ideal. I use it anywhere I can to avoid ptfe, especially rad tails- seals first time every time. Costly in relation though as once...

Close the auto air vent on the boiler and only open one end at a time and you should have your vacuum. But remember its under 1bar or so of pressure. But why not drain it? Or freeze it? And you wont want to be trying to solder like it- unless you're very brave. See, I'm a worryer me!!!!!!!!!!

'Building Regs are just guidelines'. Time to give your local Building Control Officer a ring! If the installer wasn't 'Self Certifying' then you'd (in theory) have to have notify Building Control yourself. Man's either ignorant or lying.

Tony, I'm going to take a late night, feeling tired and unwell chance to be pedantic! You correctly say the 600mm Reg refers to an opposing wall (actually says opposing surface) but the boundaries are treated as such as one could be put there. Same applies to along the boundary, ie 300mm from...

First thing is to ask them why they fitted the boiler without upgrading to conform to Building Regs (2002). Bripl's explained how it should be done with roomstat, lockshields etc. Without that your boiler keeps on running even when all the rooms are up to temp and the valves shut- so if the...

Shouldn't have done any damage (but surprised about the over heat as it has an internal bypass). Do all of your rads have thermostatic valves? Do you have a roomstat? When installed did they leave you a blue 'Benchmark' booklet? If reversing the pipework at the boiler is going to look messy it...

However Chris, when you go on Vaillant courses their trainers actually tell you its fine to isolate the ch and leave the customer with hot water while you build or work on the system, which can make a huge difference to customer comfort. Ask the techline though and they won't commit. Last Ecotec...

Mistee, you've got to stop dithering, stop worrying about your neighbour and phone your local building control. Get them to visit and all will get sorted. Corgi will help by slapping a correction notice on the installer, but only if he's registered, and in this case the guy's been such a muppet...

If you're in the position to have a whole new system from scratch then go for it.

If you've had a dodgy prv leaking perhaps it just air making the noise. Why didn't you deal with the water loss first?

Interesting- this is the set up (only one?) where no thermal cut off required. Suppose at 4 bar the vessell is as likely to get 'bladdered' as Charles Kennedey!

Hi Chris. I'm glad you're prepared to go- I don't have a visa to cross the water! Incidentally, if Andy is seeing it right- what scenario leaks on cold but stops as it heats up? Wasn't taught it and haven't seen it, but that goes for all sorts!

Haven't read your previous. Not familiar with Vantage but assume from your post it has a seperate vessel. Can you remember the pressure test procedure? Cold supply off, hot tap open, tyre guage? IF the pressure has gone again (your leak should not be continuous and only occur when unit is being...

Ecotec? Look underneath to the left. You'll see the silver loop and you should have two grey keys( maybe still in place) to operate the valves. Filling instructions are in the manual.

To keep the return temp lower and help it to be efficient maybe?

If the system is filling the upstairs rads then why are you going direct to powerflush and back fill? Sounds like an airlock between up and down. Try shutting off all the upstairs rads to try and push it through. Or open the drain offs (s) (hose attached!) and let a little out to get it moving.

Historically only the kitchen (and outside tap if one) were on the mains. Everything else (except ch), hot and cold from the main stroage tank thereby giving a 'balanced system' and no requirement for non-return valves on mixer taps etc. Cold main to one tap and tank fed hot to the other is...