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A tap spanner usually does the trick for me!

Im sure someone will get all scientific, but in essance, Plastic allows air molecules to pass through it, which, in a heating system is obviously not good! So the barrier pipe has a "barrier" to reduce/prevent ingestion of air molecules. You can get bpex! 2 things with plastic, stick to 1...

I would deffo drain it down. forget freezing pipes. A) it costs b) any problems, the clock is ticking, and you could end up in a mess. I would think about buying 2 10mm pushfit stop ends (only a couple of quid), as if you have any glitches after removing the old rad, you can cap the tails, and...

Oops sorry, just realised you said its not a combi system.

Had something similar after draining/filling a combi system, anyways after refill/bleed system was turned on rads got luke warm. Basically what had happened was the pump impeller melted due to air which was caused by a dodgy auto air vent valve.

I take it thats the kitchen? What about a plinth heater?

Screwfix do a siemens trv (10mm adapter included), i've fitted 9 of these over the last 3 years. No problems as yet.

For the ultimate finish (in my opinion), chrome tails vertically down through the floor.

I have never used it personally, only chrome pipe. i would say firstly how straight your cuts are, and secondly how straight the tails are, if it's 15mm pipe, you will fair better than the smaller stuff

just a quick thought.... you havent kinked the pipe by any chance have you?

chrome wraps even!

Just a quick thought, why dont you buy the copper wraps as a quick and hassle free alternative? to replace the pipes you have coming up, you need to get access to below the floor boards. basically you may have to cut the pipe, and as you want chrome tails, and i presume you dont own a blow torch...

Attic with vertical flue?

Firstly I'd do a quick check of your radiators, make sure theres no signs of leaks from the valves, bleed points etc. also you will probably have a pipe which runs outside from the boiler check no water is coming from there, this will be from the pressure relief valve which may not be seated fully.

A bead of silicone under the flange of the waste (where it mates with the sink) also wrap a bit of ptfe around the threads of the waste to ensure a good seal when you attatch the trap.

I understand where your coming from. The radiator you say you need is 1800w, i would try and exceed 1800w to allow for heat absorbtion. if you do go ahead, good luck, and fingers crossed it works.

I would take the shower cover off first personally and see if you can see anything untoward, also maybe worth checking to see if you can get spares for it, how old is it? Warranty maybe?

Ive not touched uf heating, but i have embedded copper pipes in the wall. there is no way i would put the copper submerged without protection, i normally use denso tape, obviously that will absorb heat. maybe the pro's can shed more light on it for you. and with regard to just placing it around...

If it aint broke dont fix it was just a figure of speech. What i meant by it was if its working why replace it. apologies for any confusion or insult.

I would personally. the screen is there to stop water going everywhere. Unless you got a recess/ or a good fall. And the less water about the floor the better if you ask me.