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Were they pretty close, ie a couple of hundred btu's difference? If so i wouldnt worry too much, i always go slightly higher than the highest figure, as you can always turn a rad down. Theres many choices/sizes of rad, panel/convector numbers etc. stelrad are good, if you want cheap, kudox at...

If its feesable, renew the waste with a decent fall, its not expensive stuff to buy. You dont want it blocking up on a regular basis, especially being kitchen sink.

As others have said, if it aint broke, dont fix it. Whilst its still going, and if it does go down and its a cheap fix then keep it going. They say 10 years out of a combi isnt bad! Should you need to replace it, i would deffo reccomebd the baxi duo tec series, i know 4 people including myself...

If your continuing with 8mm to extend, id buy a trv for 8mm just for neatness, rather than having a reducer etc. just an example http://m.wickes.co.uk/mt/www.wickes.co.uk/8mm-angled-body-trv/invt/228642/

Just a little tip, if you havent got a service valve as part of the suply to the cistern, fit one in. Should you ever need to remove the toilet you can still keep the water on in the rest of the house.

Modern close coupled toilets have an integral overflow, so has this by the looks. http://www.libertybathrooms.com/rak-series-600-bathroom-suite.html

That rad will prob need bleeding the most as i'd hazard a guess that it's the highest point of the system.

I agree with you mate, tho should there be any warranty issues, firms may say screw you, its not fitted in accordance with our instructions.

I take it the tray is stone resin? Yeah the trays i have seen are flat on the bottom, all you need to do is make sure the outer raised edges are level, the tray is formed with a fall (similar to modern baths.) When i fitted mine, i built a frame out of 4x2 with a ply top. I made the frame top...

Well firstly, the big pipe that the toilet connects to, is it external? If not and internal, does it poke throught the roof? If not you may have an air admitance valve, they can fail. Does the smell get worse when toilet is flushed?

You can check the diverter, locate it, bottom left if i recall, sorta brass colour disc, with hot water demand placed, may need helper to turn tap on, plunger moves toward microswith eventually strikes and makes connection, boiler should kick in and hot water produced

You can buy a kit to service the diverter. Comes with 2 new orings and a diaphram, about £5 odd i think. straight forward to do. Look on the baxi website for boiler manual.

Unless your looking at dolls houses, i think finding a sink thats 400mm with a draining board will be pretty slim, try google! Something like this http://www.kitchensinkstore.co.uk/undermount-sinks/kohler-icerock-300mm-undermount-sink-a/ its expensive and has no tap recepticle.

Im not sure what the minimum figure is, 1 for the pro's. i judge it by eye personally.

Have you got a pipe that comes from the boiler and goes outside(copper) if so is there a puddle below? If so you pressure relief valve may have debris stuck in it, or its knackered. If above ok, check all your rad connections, make sure you have no leaks.

As mentioned, fall of waste pipe. Also size of waste, should be 1 1/2", if you can see the waste pipe, check its not same size as your wash basin. When i ripped a bathroom out recently there was inch and half from bath trap, with a reducer to inch and a quarter, which was tee'd with wash basin...

If you look on somewhere like plumbworld, most have dimensions, Also dont forget to factor in how the toilet will connect to the soil pipe.

Well, considering you can pick up a brand new bog for about £60, id say its f'kin expensive.

Is the fan spinning? Could be a buggered pressure switch.

If you lift the cistern lid, there's a blue plastic type slider inside a tube - lay mans terms. You will prob find it's sticking, and staying up, and allowing water to be dumped straight in the pan. Like Charnwood said, check for debris, I sorted my bros by spraying some silicone spray over the...