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Oils are not very vapour impermable and would still let the timber dry. The timber is probably just warmer around those areas, it is likely one side is drying faster than the other, and this causes uneaven moisture contents, and so can cause warping. It's possible the timber had to high a...

Black spots are probably mould, which happens with varnishes, they chip and crack (as they have) and allow moisture in, but then trap it. Sand of the varnish and wash the deck down, this will probably get rid of most of the black spots (you might be able to remove the varnish with a pressure...

Try wood cleaners like net-rol or oxalic acid itself.

I found this on google http://www.trada.co.uk/faq/viewAnswer/28F42B4A-B9EE-4ADB-B22D-8C11EC1434D0

According to some span tables I have, ex 25x150 boards would span 400-450(depending on grade of deck boards) and ex 38x150 600. I would imagine ex 32 boards would sit somewhere in the middle and you could probably span 500-550, 600 does seem to be “on the line”. This however won’t have...

It is an issue caused by the drying of the material, and not the fitting, fixings, gaps etc which all seem to spec. I would say this level of checking is acceptable and quite normal for such decking. These checks seem to run the whole length of the board, and I might reject such...

Cut ends should have been retreated, but that won't be anything to do with your splits, but the overall durability. The fixings seem okay, and don't seem to be the issue if splits are not occurring at fixing locations. surface checks would be reasonable with softwood decking in dry...

I've handled the stuff. It's beech that has compressed fibres or some such, you can just bend it like hard rubber, though my sample became brittle over a number of years and harder to bend.

Where are the cracks, and how big are they, are they near fixing's or just checks on the surface, or splits on the ends of boards. What fixings have you used, at what centres etc pic's etc.

The grey colour is just caused by UV light and rain bleaching the surface fibres, and is itself nothing to worry about. If there is no sign of rot, then you won't need to treat.

Fyi Oil dosnt stop moisture, and is a purely decorative finish, it does help however to stop fingermarks and other general dirt marking the surface of the timber.

You could quote British Standard 1297. (Google it if you are unfamiliar with what that is, it’s a standard for T&G softwood flooring) Section 4 is permitted characteristics and states “Pieces shall be free from unsound knots exceeding 25mm in diameter, and loose knots or knot holes exceeding...

If you've asked for a finished size of 19mm, then thats what you should get. the allowable tolerance for finished size for T&G softwood flooring is -0mm or +2mm (ref BS1297)

If grade C16 timber is used then the joist should be 38x220 at 400 centres for a 3.8m span (or 47x195).

you don't need to treat it if it is tanalised, a coating would only be decorative in this instance, leaving it as is would mean it would bleach to a grey colour if that is desired. Oils fail very quickly externally, and would need yearly maintenence. A pigmented stain should reasonably last...

plastic sheeting is actually better than foil backed, as you can overlap it, tape up the joints, and seal socket openings much more reliably and easilly than foil backed. It is also "damaged" less when drilling or nailing holes into it for picture frames or whatever.

Not used it, but any sealent should work as long as it is compressable and elastic.

The boards should ideally be installed at 16% moisture content especially if they are T&G boards, this moisture content is somewhere in the middle of the lows and highs of moisture they will be exposed to during wet & dry periods (anything from 10-22%). Remember the treatment may be water borne...

Vapour barriers are used where there is a warm and cold side, and the barrier is always put on the warm side. If there is no warm/cold side, then i don't think you need it.

Probably a lack of ventillation, maybe recent alterations have blocked up the air bricks. It's doubtfull it will be rising damp, as if such an issue was present the joists would not have lasted nearly as long as they have. It's impossible to say how easy a job it will be without knowing...