Search results

I would still need some PIRs when cars come in, in addition to push buttons next to each entrance. The idea was to place about 6 PIRs on the car park, so any motion within the car park would reset the timer. I have been told before that fluorescent tubes will be damaged by frequent...

Thanks. The car park has 35 cars, so on the assumption that each car travels once a day, the lights would be switched around 70 - 80 times a day. If the timer is set on 2 minutes, and there is no motion detected after 2 minutes, the lights would stay on for 4 minutes x 80 = 320 minutes...

It's an underground car park, so lights would need to come up all day.

It's for a large car park, so I would like all the fluorescent tubes to turn on when motion is detected (car or pedestrian) through a number of sensors, and to stay on for a given duration (for instance 2 min) after the last mouvement was detected. Thanks, Seb

Hi, I would like to install multiple PIR detectors in a large residential car park, and control them all through a single control box/single timer (to switch about 20 fluorescent tubes at the same time). The PIRs will be hard to access, and therefore it would be better to adjust the delay...

Hi, it's actually not a roller door, but a sliding gate, and it's quite often broken, so we can't just rely on the light to come up when the door is open, or left open.

It's a gated private car park, so no reasons for pedestrians to be there if they are not a resident. I like the idea of keeping a few lights on (and maybe those can be LED), but it will make the installation more complex, as everything is on the same circuit now, so would need some rewiring...

Sure, apart from the cost and my budget of £2000 for the work! I think spraying all walls and ceiling in white would cost more than my total budget.

The car park is only for residents and has 30 spaces. So if we consider each car leaving and coming back once per day, it would be 60 cycles. The car park has an electric gate, so maybe opening the gate (i.e. coming in) could also trigger the lights. As the gate takes a few seconds to open...

Thanks. Those were installed about 10 years ago. As there is no switch currently, I don't know how long they take to switch on. As cars would enter the car park at speed, there is a safety concern that the lights could take a while to come up. Reading on forums, it seems that there are...

Hi, I live in a block of flat that has a large underground car park. In the car park, all the fluorescent lights are always on, so the electricity bill is quite large (about £2,500 just for those). We have about 60 tubes (58w each). I was thinking about getting some motion sensors to be...

I think the recommended installation for such heating cable in the screed would be 150w/200w per sq meter (I don't have any specific details for my installation). The total room size would be around 22 sq meter, so the total output would be between 3300 watts and 4400 watts. Therefore, the...

No, I don't have such tools. I am not an electrician!!! I have contacted a proper electrician, so he will have a look, but just wanted to get some information first. I am not sure he will be able to measure the load since the UFH is only activated during off-peak hours (specific electric...

I can't see any of the cables melting, so maybe it is the switch itself. Would it be expected to put a 20amp double pole switch for a large UFH zone, rather than a fused spur switch? Why do I need a fuse anyway, when there is already a dedicated 16A circuit breaker?

Thanks, I have checked and everything looks fine. The heat is mainly coming from the fuse, so I am wondering if it's not getting current close or above its rating.

Hi, I have electric underfloor heating in my living room/kitchen (one cable, wattage unknown) and when switched on, the spur switch (with a 13A fuse) on the wall becomes very hot, particularly the fuse section, and there is a bitter/fishy smell (like something melting). The electric board for...

Anyone?

Thanks, I went through the troubleshooting guide and all the documentation, but this does not really help. I don't understand the set-up, between the 710 and the 550s, the wall switches etc. I think I need to get an electrician in, but can't find a list of approved ones on the devi website.

Hi, I just moved to a modern flat that has Devi undefloor heating throughout all the rooms. The heating elements are build into the concrete floors (not visible even when carpets and underlays are removed). On the electric board, there is a Devi 710 system with several adjustment dials...

Anyone please?