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If it helps Howdens do a range of narrow fire doors. I've just fitted a 626mm (just over 2Ft) wide FD30 fire door in my converted garage - it does look very narrow but it opens in to a very narrow storage space which once was the front end of my garage. Didn't really need a fire door but used...

Yep, you've added extra weight to my concern the location of the black supply cable wouldn't be obvious - the consequences sound pretty severe. I'd love to shrink the cupboard down as it is going to be right in eyesight as you enter the bedroom. I'd happily pay an electrician to reposition the...

Yep - sorry my post wasn't as clear as it should be - I'm aiming to use a small 500mm wide by 400mm high by 300mm deep kitchen style cupboard with door to cover the actual meter and switches up whilst providing easy access - but it was more the cable runs I was asking about - as in can they be...

Hi, Picture shows the outer boundary wall of an integral garage that is being converted to a bedroom. It is already a cavity wall with insulated cavity so I was just going to skim it and put a small cupboard over the meter, but to the right you will see trunking (going down to a surface mount...

Right I'm ready to take the plunge and do the conversion, including the wall as per your recommended spec - but I would now like to put a door in to the new stud wall to allow access from the new bedroom to the new storeroom from inside. I'd like it to be a fairly high spec door from a noise /...

Cheers - typically I can't find it now but swore I saw something fairly authentic looking that inferred all doors in lower storeys / bungalows had to have lintels these days, in case something went on top later, but I'm happy now to stick the notice in with nothing up there and see what they...

There's enough tension in my life as it is :mad: :mrgreen:. Thank you both, a quick round trip and I've now got the hangers, nails and a couple of bits of fine looking C24 timber - going cheap at the local yard. A job for the weekend maybe though (y)

Based on the dims in my above post I'm thinking these might do the job - one each side for each joist ? https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-galvanised-jiffy-hanger-100-x-250mm-10-pack/64910

Wall to wall gap is 1.2m and there are 3 joists that will require supporting. Plenty of room either side to extend - as you say, a couple of joists worth both ends should do. I mentioned making some hangers up as where they are exposed the joists are doubled up - 2 x 3" by 2", probably just...

Thanks - yep I assume Dereekoo was just referring to whatever was supported the joists - therefore being in tension, but there might be an angle I'm missing. As per my above post I'm thinking of making up some hangers from a twisted strap type arrangement.

Thanks - I was hoping lintels would not be required but heard "rumours" that BC did want them these days "in case anything is built on top. Edit - I could be bloody minded and just place a loose lintel up in the loft over the gap heh heh. Re tension rods - I was thinking some heavyish section...

Hi, Firstly am struggling to find info on whether a lintel is required above a new internal doorway in a non-load bearing clinker block wall in a 70's bungalow. If one is required it's going to be tricky to support one end as the doorway is at an intersection where another wall and door meets...

If the ceiling of the planned adjacent extension is not directly linked to the ceiling in question - ie it's separate by a dividing wall or supporting beam etc - then you won't notice the slight difference in height. If the new ceiling is going to become one with the existing ceiling then as far...

Everyone has their own valid preferences. I did loads of both over-boarding and removing in my previous victorian house - ended up switching to just overboarding in the end. Provided your joists are in reasonable nick I'd personally recommend over-boarding, I found it much quicker / cleaner, a...

Large black pipe behind the ladder - guttering downpipe or soil / stack pipe? I had near identical issue in a wall in a victorian house where the vertical soil pipe fed down in to a sewer pipe that effectively rang along the line of the wall and then came away from the wall towards a manhole...

Yes I was surprised how well that stuff works. Put mine in the bath for a while, crumble it up a bit so you can work it in all nooks and crannies and then just whacked in flat with a mallet. Obviously the colour might be a bit darker, but its cheaper than a new drive !

If that wall is an outside wall (not the one joined to your neighbours) just check there is not a vent on the outside going in to the rear of the fireplace. I had an old victorian house and one of the 3 blocked up fireplaces had that when we moved in. Appeared to work ok, but if there is no sign...

Certainly looks worth doing but as others have said, building regs can be quite involved with stairs and landings re fire issues. It does seem a no brainer though but then maybe there was a building control related reason why it was done that way in the first place. Deffo worth getting someone...

I did think about that but to me it seems extra fiddly as I'd probably take ages doing it, I'm one of those who likes it to be nice and secure hence packing full of mortar would give that feel good factor... but is it likely to crack etc?

Hi all, Trying to put a stud then internal door frame up against a stitch drilled 100mm thick clinker block wall. Really didn't want to disc cut - but due to the slight stagger in some block laying, a couple of iffy blocks and then my slightly iffy stitch drilling I've a bit of a rough surface...