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Thanks for replies, should have said the spanner in the mix will be the reclaimed extremely worn granite setts I will be paving the drive with which are not very wheel-friendly at all. Cutting a track for the wheel later hopefully, chopping several hundred setts for clearance won't be fun...

Depends on what you want to plant! Couple of feet minimum imho. That being said less might be ok for just turf.

..because it just looks great. Good news! Bad news, it must be 200kg, at least. My friend and I are vaguely mostly athletic ish and we can merely shuffle it about, slowly. Getting it out the van was a sight to behold. It's 9 foot wide and 6 foot high, which is nice. I think it would have been...

Problem is your DPM sheet, wrapped around the timbers will act like a paddling pool - any water that does get in will never get out.. Ideally use thicker timber joists for the base lengths of your design, and have them raised on pedestals, these could be anything really such as engineering...

type 1 is a size of hardcore sub-base. Lift that black cover and see which direction the service goes, could be in the direction of the concrete. Bets its data/telephone line in 1" condiut and can be dug out and repositioned when you dig down for your sub-base. Ideally replace the black cover...

I was about to suggest nice old Victorian cast iron rollers go cheap on the usual used stuff sites..

With that sort of drainage you could grow Champagne grapes! On topic, as much topsoil as humanly possible. As roots don't grow in sub-soil, so your plants' height & health will be limited directly by the depth of top soil available.

Just pack the low joists to level. Plastic and or slate packers

Also I am adding a substantial amount of floor void ventilation with these clay things which are actually cavity bridges for air bricks. I will continue to burrow all the way through the centres stair core to the back kitchen wall of the house for proper front to back airflow, all stuck in with...

Hello, I usually try to answer questions where I can and generally be as helpful as possible on here, however it is now me needing the help.. So I thought you peoples may have some good ideas to solving my quandary. Long story short, new to me house, all GF flooring is mush, 3x air bricks in...

Double post, see correct thread here: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/slightly-unusual-suspended-floor-build-help.564014/#post-4872535

No issues with that, that would be called a 'brick to brick' window installation. Just won't look as good as sash ;)

It would have originally had sash windows which are larger than the opening in the outer leaf, they sit in a recess created by the inner leaf opening being bigger than the outer leaf, this is called a check reveal. If you refit new sash windows with this method you will only see the front top...

The bricks are originally built (mortared) with lime mortar, they cannot be pointed with cement because the lime mortar underneath cannot breathe through it, this causes moisture retention in the brick and they will start spalling next winter.. STOP them now and make sure they dig out everything...

Wickes, £14.50,, https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-L04-Steel-Reinforced-Concrete-Lintel---100-x-65-x-1500mm/p/220332 Admit that is a bit smaller in section but it's the only one the website in that length (1500mm), but cheap..

Prestressed concrete lintels...

First thought is the render is retaining moisture in the stone causing the flaking.. My suggestion would be limewash or similar breathable coating to allow moisture to escape rather than build up and damage the stone. Is the existing render cementous by any chance?

What on earth are 'dry rods'?

I'd remove them because if they get moist at any point they can rust, expand and push the repair filler out..

Yeees.....