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Yes I was expecting the evil that is cement render on period masonry to be the cause. Sounds like the lack of drip edge causing the rain water to 'pour' onto the brickwork is the cause as per above mentioned.

The damp on the inside leaf is only evident at and below the render line??

The problem is the moist air condenses half way through the insulation when it reaches the dew point (top half of insulation is exposed to internal heat is warm, so the moisture condenses when it reaches the bottom half of insulation exposed to atmosphere which is cold). This is the problem...

Good luck with that

You install no vapour barrier in any building fabric you install?

There was a YT video about it I watched recently by 'the restoration couple', core drilled & ducted new 32 mdpe into kitchen from the street. Worth a watch along wit their other vids

If you're going to install a new house supply from the utility valve then definitely run that in 32mm MDPE rather than 25 which they'll probably suggest (it's only a bit more dear). And piping it under the foundations will be neater - less external pipes the better imho.

Yes white oakum & poured lead! You need 4lbs of lead for that 4" socketed soil joint.

Assuming you can read, just spend a few minutes googling interstitial condensation

It's a shame your builder will have to lift up all that ufh pipe to install the materials he incompetently missed off the drawings.

It expands ;) Now unless your ceiling has holes in(?), when warm air expands in a space it will exit through any penetration correct? Namely this guys floorboards & rockwool, the rest is history. Caveating with door being closed. Having said that I believe the correct term is 'vapour pressure'...

There will be warm humid air in the habitable space ABOVE the floor, caused by human occupation. Without a vapour barrier this moist air will migrate down through the insulation and condense when it reaches the dew point, mid way through the insulation, as the sub floor void will be COLD. You...

I have similar situation, thinking to core drill a hole at either end of the corridor (under stair in my case), so the void communicates with the adjacent room which will be ell ventilated with air bricks. If you wanted to go really posh then duct the void to a pair of dedicated air bricks via...

There does not appear to be any 'loop' which you refer in the picture, it looks to be a tee off a meter, connected as follows: Meter or pressure reducing valve, 90 elbow Stop cock Tee (right hand branch) Stop cock supply to outlets. (left hand branch) Leadded pipe joint - The bulb to which you...

If the lintel needs to be replacing I think it would be worth having a 'replica' made from a similarly curved length of green oak, easily sourced and cut,

Ah dam, oh well. Can I recommend saving / reselling the terracotta tiles, they are getting rare!

Timber lintels? Worth considering keeping or at very least reselling those terracotta floor tiles! They polish (clean) up great and are extremely desirable in hallways & kitchens for period builds. just worth a thought! Keep up the good work. Edit: I would run a 22mm pipe from your...

Following with interest. What are your plans with the pebble dash? Seconded shame regarding loft conversion but valid points made it's uneconomical and would yield little extra space. What is your profession if I may? Beers! HH

Love that exposed chimney breast! It is the new master bedroom now? assuming it's your house.. lol Is that dormer roof GRP? And may I ask how was planning success with such a large dormer? Looks to be over PD threshold size? beers!

How is this project getting on?