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Sorry but who as a pro plasterer has got time to prep and pva the night before? You generally have a very short time scale for the whole job - 2 coats of pva (have so far) been succesfull in my experience, but who knows ?

I'd say 2 coats of pva too

Not sure where you live but I'd charge £400 inc vat.

You need to strip the woodchip and then re skim the walls. The Polycell stuff is rubbish - if your a plasterer you can get a good result, though most of us prefer a bag of plaster when skimming :shock:

IMHO there's no difference in any of the manufacturers products. I've used all sorts and providing the mix ratios are correct for the application process you shouldn't have a problem. Whatevers cheapest in the builders merchants is the one I go for - and so do most of the guys I speak to.

Knock of high points of artex, pva ceiling then plaster with multi finish. If you've never plastered before - don't bother, it will look awful. Try something a little less difficult - like a wall :shock:

Hi Fred From what you've described it is a days work - on my own. So £200 plus materials. Its difficult when you first start up and many of your thoughts mirror mine a few (or more) years ago. Keep your prices competitive but realistic, I think your pitching about right. As you get faster...

Good luck with setting yourself up. I charge £200 per day plus materials. For what its worth people often have trouble getting a spread to do the small jobs - I still would charge either half a day or a full day depending on how long I'm there. Generally though I try to steer clear of these...

I'm local to you - look in Thomsons directory under painters and decorators, ask them to price up the work and take your pick. One thing we're not short of in MK are tradesmen. :D

I dont know if your married or in a steady relationship - but the biggest problem is maintaining a reasonable income when you jump from what you're now doing to what you want to do. You will definetly need support from your nearest and dearest, thats financial and emotional support. Unless...

You really should remove all the paper on the ceiling - its a pain but worthwhile doing. As for the downlighters, if possible skim the ceiling prior to installing the downlighters. I think you get a much neater finish drilling the holes after skim. If thats not possible then you can skim with...

Thanks for the replies, the trv's were replaced in the correct positions, as for the scale inhibitor - we inherited this system and prior to rad removal all was well. Is there anything else we could do ?

Can anyone help with a problem with rattling/knocking on our rising main. To give a brief layout - rising main enters house, to main stopcock then onto an 'electrolyte' scale inhibitor, after about 70 cms takes a sweeping 45 degree left turn. The rattling seems to be in the actual scale...

For what its worth, we have just completed our dining room. Most of the original plaster was blown so it all came off, back to the brick work. Then replastered. Absolutely the best way to go IMHO - no plasterboard. It was a big job, very messy but now looks great, solid walls just as it was...

You can use skrim tape to cover the cracks, you would then need to apply a thin plaster skim over the tape and feather it into the ceiling so that the 'bump' doesn't show. I recently had the same problems with one ceiling, I can't remember the trade name but I got some selfadhesive tape from...

Why don't you just skim the ceiling with mutifinish plaster

Are you going to reboard the ceiling and then tape and join, or are you thinking of applying joint filler etc directly to the artex surface.

I've read mixed reviews on this site re polycell smoothover. I recently met a customer who had polycell'd their study ceiling and was asking me for a price to reskim it. The polycell finish was awful, as for that silly spready thing that comes with it - lol - I gave him a price and will be going...

Thats a pretty large building, I'm also amazed that you don't need planning permission. Where I live anything over 30sqm needs permission.

Thanks for your replies, but it doesn't really answer my question. I know about the acoustic insulation I'm really hoping to get some advise about constructing the studwork away from the wall or onto the existing walls.