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bip bip................. sounds like a smoke / co alarm to me. Run out of batteries.

Maybe we could help more if you could describe the alarm, is it a standard beeep, or maybe a more unconventional brrrp brrrp? Is it more of a bip bip? Or a parp? let us know. Mike

do you mean a pop up waste, with a lever incorporated in the tap, or a pop up waste, where you push the plug on a spring to close / open it?

Yes, but make sure you put in a cleaning eye just in case.

Sounds like the symptoms of a blocked plate heat exchanger in the boiler. Boiler fires up and then overheats as the water cant circulate, then cuts out, cools a bit then refires, overheats etc. Easy to see if that is the case, check the pipes going into the plate heat exchanger, if one is...

It would be very unusual for this boiler to "reset" itself, more likely is that you have an intermittant fault with the hot water demand, have a look under the boiler on the brass diverter valve, there is a pin in the middle with a black button on which when the tap is opened pushes out and on...

If the pressure is at 1 bar you don't need to put any more water in, that is about the right pressure.

three replies at the same time, is this a record, have we not got beds to go to?

you need a 1/2 " tap connector and fibre washer, you can get these with compression to the 15mm, some would say dont use sealant on plastic, but I would be inclined to use a bit of LSX sealant or Plumba sealant if I wanted to be double sure, Or...have you thought about a flexi connection...

Probably not, you will have to remove and replace the tail as well, I have never had one break something when trying to remove it. you have to make sure you are using the right rad spanner to remove the tail, its a bit like a big allen key, some have grooves on the inside, then just give it...

How do you know that it is cold water? It would be very unusual for any plumber to fit a drain off to the cold supply that goes outside, this would be more likely to be a central heating drain point. I agree that it would be easier and more practical to cut a tee in somewhere accessable...

Its supposed to be at least 750mm deep, which is roughly 2 1/5 foot down, but could be deeper. Its set at this depth to prevent freezing during winter months.

I would be inclined to try regency's idea first, you could always cut the drips off later if it got messed up.

Um.... No, because that winds in clockwise as well, the idea is that you want the PTFE to not unwrap itself off the pipe as it is being wound in.

clockwise, about 15 - 20 turns.

1) different makes of tap connector seem to be different size washers. 2 Correct, there is an "L" shaped bracket that screws to the floor and then you fix the pan horizontally through the upright of the "L". Mike.

Easiest is to take the tap to your local plumbing merchants, not the DIY store and show them what you need, they will more than likely have it on the shelf, if not would order them in.

dont really know of any specific websites, but if you find out the make and model of the boiler and download the installation manual, then it will state exactly how and where to terminate the flue.

Screw the open end of the braided pipe to the check valve ( the silver fitting) on the right hand pipe and open the other end valve with a screwdriver. Fill the system to 1bar, then shut off the valve with a screwdriver so the slot is across the pipes ( as it is now). Hope that helps Mike.

It does sound like a gully, probably blocked with fat. Try unblocking it using water through a hosepipe, failing that try emptying as much hot water down it as you can to try and melt it away. Its the same shape as the 'U' bend under your sink so is probably blocked out of reach.