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If your floorboards are rotten as opposed to just wet then this is a long standing problem which a concrete floor in itself isn't going to sort. You said you have drainage issues to sort so I'd get that looked into first, That may be the answer and a simple replacement or drying out of the...

Go to a timber merchants and get them cut from a deeper section to the exact depth you need. Might be missing a trick here but I would have thought you need to create an airspace below the floor to aid air circulation and prevent damp. build a single brick sleeper wall down the centre of the...

several issues here, what is the intended build up to the new flooring?. You don't fix the new boards directly to the concrete at the very least you woud lay a vapour barrier (plastic sheeting would do) to prevent any moisture from below affecting the new flooring, this is probably the reason...

Very difficult to ensure the perpends are fully filled with blockwork therefore may be a requirement to render one side for smoke. :D

I would say for ease of construction a stud wall faced with plasterboard would be simplest. Depending on the required fire rating, presuming it would need to be an hour minimum, you have to double skin the plasterboard 1x19mm thick and 1x12mm thick with staggered taped and filled joints. The...

Yep sounds metric standard door widths are 686,762,838,915 which are the metric conversion of the old imperial sizes. Try a builders merchants instead of B&Q or get them cut down to size from an 838 should be able to plane 19mm off both edges without too much effect on the door. HTH Alan

What is your original floor construction? is it timber or concrete. If it's timber then just board it over with thin ply to the required level. If it's concrete then you would just have a thicker than normal grout under the new tiles. If that isn't feasible there are additives you can get for...

You need loft caps which look like an upside down flower pot, been discused on here several times try a search. HTH Alan

There will be various patterns of T&G boarding available from a good timber merchants, I know the type you mean but can't think of the name. As for appearance T&G is good as you can secret nail it and it forms a stiffer sheet over the unsupported areas of the frame, where as butted boards will...

The 64mm (2.5") quoted on the lock is the backset which is the distance from the edge of the lock or door to the centre of the handle. Whether the handle and lock will line up should be easy enough to check since you are getting them both from the same place. HTH Alan

Joining timbers is cumbersome to say the least, they need a substantial overlap length which is determined by design loads, span, grade of timber, bolts, type of timber connectors etc etc. so there is no easy answer to your question. I would suggest that for your application it just isn't...

Bit difficult to follow what you mean from your description but it sounds like the top of the floor boards are level with the top of the concrete strip. You also mention the floorboards are floating. Do you mean a "floating floor" which is a timber floor laid on top of a concrete slab. The...

Wouldn't recommend recessed light fittings in a flat roof. You should fit loft caps over recessed light fittings to maintain the integrity of the ceiling in the event of a fire, these generally are like an upside down flower pot so without access from above would be impossible to locate...

I'm assuming that because the extension is above a garage that you have a ceiling installed in the garage. The simplest way would be to line the ceiling of the garage with insulation sheets. I've seen rolls of foil backed insulation for underfloor and attics that are less than 1cm thick from...

Seen them advertised for around £40 for a pack of 5 not a lot for peace of mind. Here's some useful info Flameguard Downlighters The Flameguard system is a means of installing low voltage or mains voltage downlighters with integral fire and acoustic properties negating the need for...

A steel beam is your best option, only drawback is if you are planning to run services through the floor space (central heating, cabling etc.) and need to drill through the beam. You will also have to fire proof the steel beam but this is not as difficult as it sounds it's just an additional...

Yep agree with Bowness steel is the way to go, why not just split the 26 ft span into two spans of 13 ft and then you can reduce your joists to something like 7x2's a lot cheaper and easier to handle. If you are going steel though you have to consider the supports at each end of the beam are you...

Yep we're still 30 minutes and closers up here, also building warrant approval is mandatory before work commences. I wouldn't imagine there is a huge saving in cost or construction between a 20 and 30 minute door so I'd go with 30. Also seems a bit strange if you don't fit a self closer then you...

A cubic metre of concrete weighs 2400kg or 2.4 tonnes so check what the capacity of the props are and give yourself a factor of safety of at least 2:1 so if you calculate for example that 3 props are adequate hire six. Also consider some scaffold tubes to rig up cross bracing between the props...

Ahem sorry to disagree here but I believe the Forth Road Bridge paid for itself several years ago, the toll of a pound (return journey) is also the cheapest you would find anywhere. The fact is that it is totally knackered and is in danger of being closed to HGV's etc. in the near future...