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Type into Google - Chimney Apron. Obviously the person that attempted your job is not into welding lead. As for the mortar skills.......

From experience, replace the tap. It's the easiest option and as you've set out on the journey of trying to figure out on how to dismantle it (if possible) and can you get the correct spares etc.. you will arrive at the stage of buying a new tap. So I would just default to 'New Tap'

Caulk or grout. Don't use silicone because you'll never be able to paint over it.

Where you have the vertical insulated DPC installed, we just cut the fully cavity and slide the cavity insulation board up to the old inner leaf. Foil backed plasterboard can't be dot and dabbed onto blockwork. The foil is a vapour barrier and really only needed on the ceilings under the loft...

Good question. When a chimney is no longer used and blocked off, a 9" square vent is fitted to the base of the chimney and a vent cap placed on the chimney pot. This is to allow warm air to draft up the chimney, otherwise the air in a sealed stack condenses which can cause damp. When the stack...

I think part and parcel of old houses is that the inner part of the house slightly sinks. Possibly due to inadequate foundations under inner walls. If they bother you that much, then yes, alter the casing and cut/straighten the top of the door. And whilst you do that, I would change the glass...

You fit a bellcast bead before rendering, then render. So logic suggests, you need to go up a few inches, cut and remove the render, nail a bellcast bead to the wall, and render from that up to the old render. But now, you will have that join between the new render strip and old render, which...

As you just mentioned, building regulations. The work you're doing requires building regulations, so therefore, you can ask the building inspector.

Above openings, you install a cavity tray. That's just a length of DPC material that extends past each side of the window by a few inches and covers the thickness of the wall with the cavity tray being higher at the back (inside of the house) than the front (outside of the house). Unless you...

to be honest, it's doesn't look great. Straight away, there's dry joints (perps/vertical brickwork joints above one another) going on, so it makes the pattern look dreadful. If you were wanting a brick effect, block paving was the answer.

Building control will just simply want to see each stage of the build to at least match the specification in the Approved Documents. Also, where there's structural elements, they want a copy of the structural engineers calcs for their file. When you build, you are more than welcome to increase...

I can only answer from a general builders point of view who's City & Guilds is in brickwork. I select slates so they sit flat, sometimes you have to cut the top two edges off. Lead can increase the joint under the slate. Between your neighbours, either tie the slates in or fit a fibreglass ridge...

£5,200 is reasonable, assuming minimum 3" hardcore whacked in and 40mm 3:1 sand/cement with the back of the tiles washed in correct porcelain slurry and not just a dilution of SBR and cement.

Get an old bathroom sink tap and cut the tread off. There's your extended thread. Then get a suitable fitting to join it onto the concealed shower fitting. Why? My plumbers merchant gave me that advice and it worked, and I've been in the game for over 19 years and just found that trick out!

Sorry, I work in the trade so I just quickly sort that kinda thing out. I suggest an electrician if it's tricky

Just replace the cables with one length of new.

Just remove the old gable end. Some leave it because it means disposing more rubbish. I usually take the full out leaf off when doing a full end house extension, adds a few extra inches to the rooms. Or put lintels in, a couple of spanlites.

They either work or don't work and there's really no reason why. Maybe depends which part of China they come from. I've changed the odd one too that decided to drip. One thing I did come across was on a new build, the big house builder bypassed Trevis Perkins and went direct to a Chinese...

Touching a soil stack. shortening/lengthening pipes is covered by building regs, I kid you not. So you should really be following guidance from the appropriate approved Regs document and you really should apply for building regs. Not many do, hence why you did your post for advice.

Very simple, outside ground level should be 150mm/6 inch/2 bricks below DPC. Render should not bridge DPC. So just do/follow that and problem solved.