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I have seen these Cassa dimmers in Homebase and as B-A-S quite rightly said the ~ terminal is for a retractive switch to conect to by way of operating a latching relay. Basically you use a retractive switch to momentarily switch 240v onto the terminal. From what I can remeber you need 3c&E...

It's OK to mix harmonized and non harmonized, but you must install a label on the consumer unit clearly stating that two colour codes are in operation on the installation. These are available from all electrical trade counters. There are specific ones that meet 5839 as a bit of paper stuck on...

I'm no expert but have just replaced my central heating with a combi boiler and run all pipe work in plastic. It runs at 2bar and I don't have any noise from pipes at all, compared to a reasonable amount of creaking from the copper that was removed with the old system.

Most carry 240v ac though some rely on a volt free closing contact. If in doubt definitely assume it's 240v until proven not.

I've got a Ferroli Arena 30C condensing combi that's nearly a year old. I installed the pipe work and rads myself and got a British Gas fitter to commission the boiler on the side. All has worked fine for the first 11 months, but every now and then when it's just finished producing hot water...

WEre they definitely a good fit round the 20mm tube? I've seen this for pipe work before, but they would be 15mm and 22mm and not 20mm. I've seen them in Wickes, but also the usual plumbers merchants too. Just a thought that they might not actually be for conduit???

Working on live cables in a small cramped wet hole? Touch them and they'll only be bones left? No doubt the monkeys don't get all of the £400, but I'd want more like £4k to do that kind of work for a living!!!

The majority of the circuit is wired in 1.00mm, but some in 1.5mm. Looking at my on site guide (out of date now), it appears 1.00mm can carry upto 13.5A when in trunking or in a non thermal wall. As such I assume this means I can upgrade to a 10A type C MCB, BUT will this actually solve my...

Thanks for the advice. As it's all now been plastered, decorated, and is fully installed with no chance of fishing a wire down the capping, and also as an extra switch would mean chopping in a twin KO box rather than a single to accommodate the extra switch, I'll either live with it, or go to...

The only other lighting on the downstairs circuit are 40w filament lamps (400W in total) and 2 x 35w 12v lamps via a 105vA transformer. These don't need to be on for the MCB to trip. Hall lights are actually on the upstairs circuit!

I've just installed three 300vA 12v transformers onto the downstairs lighting circuit. One is switched on its own, and the other two are switched on together via one switch. I've changed the MCB to a type C 6A, but every now and again switching on just the one switch with the two transformers...