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35 years, that makes date of build about 1970. I'm pretty sure thats not early enough to be exempt. How far is the wall of the extension from the nearest boundry (curtillage) how high is the extension Is it to the front of the property or the rear how far is it from the highway...

box em in with fitted bathroom furniture (Like fitted kitchen furniture) if u can.

SKIP RAT.......watch those curtains twitch

I would avoid cement, as I say, if you make a mess on the bricks, getting cement off is a nightmare. 5-1-1 mix would be a good mix for bricklaying but bricklayers are neat workers, DIY re-pointers will not be at their first attempt. I would try a patch using "bag lime" (powdered hydrated...

my 20's house has brick thresholds. the bricks are layed with their stretcher faces perpendicular to the threshold and rest on the stretching face so the arrangement looks like bricks forming a lintel above a window etc. the bricks used are different to those of the adjacent wall, they are...

why not try re-pointing a couple of square feet in an area of wall that is not "on show". Then you'll know whether this job is one u want to do yourself. If your doing the whole house it will be safer to hire scaffold or perhaps a tower. I would try a mortar of one part lime putty to three...

I've just taken up the quarry tiles in the kitchen of my 20's semi. some of them had cracked and many were uneven. The floor under the tiles is like a soft concrete about 1/2 inch thick, (more or less in places). It's bedded on well compacted hardcore but, not suprisingly has broken up in a...

why not swap to an "in-the -ground" (brown) meter box and have the gas pipe enter the house just above the plinth. And why have a concrete plinth at all if it causes so much trouble. Unless the house needs it for a structural reason it might be better to replace the concrete with a lime render.

maybe someone is off target :P

the main advantage of a lime mortar is that after 100 years your maintanace task is repointing as opposed to replacing half the brickwork. The theory is that the efects of weather, time, frost etc cause the softer mortar to deteriorate and not the brickwork. The risk of using a rich portland...

what is the age of the property :?: is the mortar a rich mix or is it soft. :?: were is the damp proof course in relation to the damaged bricks :?: can you obtain bricks which match the house brick :?:

I want to build the corners of the wall first. But what about the DPC. is it ok to do this by using 2 lengths of DPC and join them in the middle with an overlap. I don't think I can lay bricks fast enough to build each corner up to cover the whole length of the DPC in on go. Any help please

If you can find a filling loop then try disconecting it.

a simpler solution might be to buy one of those black plastic gully shrouds from B&Q etc. This will be more effective than brickwork suround

I thought most of these fancy baths come pre plumbed / pumped. If yours isn't why not follow the manufacturers example, screw some pipe clips to some 18mm plywood and fix this to the bottom of the bath with no-nails type adhesive. Then, pipe up the taps in copper leaving the ends of the pipes...

you'll need to involve the building inspector of the local council for that drain work so you could ask him. I would put a rodding access fitting separate to any gully at the start of the first run. At the 90 bend put in a shallow access chamber, plus a short pipe run rising up to the surface...

your buildings insurer will probably advise of a surveyor.

could be they have not used engineering quality bricks below DPC, with damp on the inside they may have omitted to use an under floor damp proof membrane. If things are really bad ring your buildings insurer

yep, I've just hand mixed a floor, (1.2 tonnes of ballast) that was only 11 barrows and jees I was knackered at the finish. 18m x 600x 600mm deep ! thats gonna cost a fortune (about £500) in concrete dude. why not 150 deep and use 2 courses of 215 wide hollow concrete blocks on top. If...

they have a row of pin type contacts and can be quite stiff instructions read Locate the module on the latches at the bottom of the wallplate and hinge upwards to fully engage the unit connectors into the wallplate. Tighten the two fi xing screws to secure the unit to the...