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Either faulty or incorrectly wired.

Ah yes, I see what you mean now tony, thanks Makes sense now.

I realise that Tony, and there's many one pipe domestics piped in the same way on a smaller scale. But surely lower flow temps from W/C would create problems from the later rads not heating up properly . Flow temp at the last rad will always be way below the flow temp at the first. Yes a...

I always double clip plastic every side of a joint. It does soften when hot, then tends to hold it's new shape when it cools again. Even the cold pipework will take to its new shape after a time. You can also bend it back against itself as it comes off the coil which helps a little too.

On a two pipe I would agree Tony, but a one pipe relies alot on convection to create flow through the rads, the pump pressure keeping water flowing through the pipe does it not ? Besides on every one pipe ive worked on, reducing flow temp by much would mean radiators later in the loop...

I wouldn't take it off, but would do no harm at all to add more over the top, you might need to use the next size up to get a good fit.

Erm well both myself and tony are heating engineers, so I would have thought that was experience enough tbh.

Btw DO NOT OPERATE THE BOILER WITH THE COVER OFF

To get specific experience you need to be poking about with a multi meter. Knowing what those wires are doing and knowing what they are supposed to be doing are two different things. Remove the wires then bridge. The cover should go back on and seal correctly, but how could you be 100% sure ?

The cover on those boilers forms part of the combustion seal, which an engineer would be qualified to break and remake which is what makes it a big deal, the time it takes and ease of it has no real bearing. If you know exactly what is going on at the other end of the wires connected to 3...

What, no Glowworm Ultracom ? :shock:

Don't forget the van he uses to get to you, insurance, tax, national insurance, cost of buying and maintaining tools, accountancy fees, advertising, training and all the other overheads a business has. It really winds me up when folk take the cost of half the materials then decide the rest...

You shouldn't worry about it. It doesn't take much round here :lol:

No you can't is the quick easy answer. An aav could easily fail closed, they are not designed as a saftey device.

The connector shoukd be self sealing. Ive never had trouble with mcapline connectors. Unless yoy take the existing one off you won't be able to tell what state its in.

Sounds more like you need a new pan connector rather than re-bodging it with silicone. Really silicone is designed to keep water out not in, but if you really want to re-bodge it, try some black aquarium silicone, that my work for you.

Or go for abit of tuppaware and use a standard 240v valve, with a relay to operate it.

I borrow my mates on the odd occasion I need one. I think it's fair to say that being generic about trades abilities can be somewhat unfair at times.

Fluke 1651, Thanks. That's why I said to diagnose the fault AND replace the pump IF NEEDED. Not change it and see if that stops the problem as you suggest anyone but an electrician would do.

Which a good heating engineer will carry and know how to use so your point is ?