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Cheeky *** Alternatively you could use a heating engineer that can diagnose AND repair the fault. Electricians are all well and good, but give them something more complicated than a basic S or Y plan and watch their head explode.

The horizontal flue is supposed to have a slight fall towards the boiler, and angling it down isn't the solution, and without being registered you shouldn't be messing with the flue at all. I doubt this is the problem anyway as it's been fine for 18 months. You would have to be getting some...

I'll admit that I've learnt something, I would never have though twice about a swaged joimt on a gas line before. I've not actually made one myself since college given its faster to use a coupler. The concencus amoung professionals and some industry publications I managed to find on the web...

2.5 mbar drop is massive on those pipe sizes. How big is the boiler and are their any other appliances that need to be taken into account ?

If it's been made properly nothing wrong with making a join that way IMO. Stronger than using a coupler.

There should be a drain tap somewhere on the system, often on one of the radiator valves. Attach a hose and open it up. You have fully closed the filling loop haven't you ? You shouldn't need to regularly top up a sealed system. There is problem that needs sorting. Adding new water all the...

WB have gone too plasticy IMHO, and those PRV's are horrible.

Unipipe according to the site I filched the picture off :lol:

This might help

Give him the spanner and a bag of peanuts and send him on his way :lol:

Dosen't that worry you ? That's like your Doctor saying I've dolled out different pills so quite happy to prescribe whatever you want ! How much heat does your house need ? how do you heat your hot water ? How do you use your heating, i.e. are you in all the time, or out a good portion of...

Its the amount of power drawn by the shower. If you only have a 6mm cable it will need upgrading to handle the additional power required if you decide to upgrade the shower.

Subject to sufficient mains pressure you should get a better shower from a higher powered model. If you are using the existing cable is it up to a 10.5kw shower though ?

Bypassing the timer clock and fitting a programmable room stat fixes that one cheaply enough, and expansion vessels aren't all that dear. if that is all that is wrong with it I would get it repaired.

The head of the drain should be open to atmosphere, if you only have one stack thats the head of the drain. Any aav should be fitted above the spillover level of the highest appliance served by the stack.

Ask 5 different plumbers how many wraps and I bet you get 5 different answers. Personally ive taken to 5 wraps of medium density ptfe on threaded joints. And I woukd say that 13-14 wraps of any ptfe would make screwing the thread in uber difficult.

I think from memory polypipe suggest 6 bar for min 1 hr, and you will need to top up during the test as the plastic expands to do it properly. To be honest if you test to 5 bar and get no leaks you can be pretty confident in your installation. That prv would be fine so long as your main...

Isolate the cold water at the boiler, this will isolate all your hot taps, or turn off at the main stop tap.

Pressure test should be 1.5x the maximum working pressure (assuming copper) so test to 4.5 bar. Make sure the pressure holds, and if physically check joints for leaks/weeps. You could use a pressure reducing valve off the main to fill and give you the correct pressure. If your planning on...