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The PTFE tape makes the seal on threaded joints :lol:

Once your system is complete you will balance it to achieve the correct flow rates through the system. If you connect the flow and return you will just bypass your radiators and cause your boiler to cycle. The object is not to get as much hot water firing round the system as fast as...

The larger the pipe size the more gas it can carry, and resistance is not based on the smallest part of the pipe only but the entire run. Your engineer mate should know this, it is pretty basic stuff. As for a g4 meter only having a 22mm outlet :lol: He should know better.

There is alot missing to your little tale, and alot of questions already asked that you conviniently didnt answer in previous threads. Do you plan on posting the same carp again next month

Range rating and changing the anticycle time should have sorted the cycling issue, are you sure you did it right ?

Which type of one pipe system do you have ? Are the radiators t, d off the pipe or does the pipe connect through the radiators only. If the former balancing the system should help, but the later the radiator on the system the colder it will be. Re piping would be good, but it's usually...

As per the range rating, setting the anticycle time is also in the manual. If you loom in the faqs at the top of the plumbing and heating section there is a good guide on balancing so long as you can work a spanner and a thermometer you should manage fine.

Also give the anti-cycle timer a higher value. About 15-20 mins should be about right. Aa for the rads that aren't getting hot, the system did get re-balanced by the installer didn't it ?

That will be a cheaper option to install but seems a bit limited The heatmiser kit will give you full time temperature control remotely.

The Heatmiser system is pretty good. They do wireless stats, but the reciever will need wiring to the boiler, and the netmonitor will need wiring to your router, though you could get around that with a p2p wireless bridge.

The divertor valve is inside the boiler.

The problem is with your boiler. As its under guarantee get them back to it. If you start poking around it you could well find yourself without a guarantee.

The fans are automatically turned on when heated water flows through the heater. I wouldn't look to cut power to the unit, but control weather or not the heater receives heated water. They also work as just a fan in summer, so ideally want power all the time to allow you to use this feature...

Is the valve moving into the correct position ? Does the flow pipe to the cylinder get any heat to it at all ? If this has just been done then I would get whoever did it to come back and sort it out.

Not a bad boiler and VERY common. I would stick with it and keep it serviced until it starts giving you trouble, then consider if repairs are economical. As for COMBI boilers being more efficient, utter tosh. ROUGHLY A 150l cylinder heats from a 15kw system boiler in about 18 mins with a...

It wasn't already explained when I replied to your post before you edited yours. Given that I would replace the valve entirely. A motorised full bore ball valve should prevent the same happening again.

What indicator are you using to tell the head is the right way around. There should be a arrow showing the correct flow direction through the valve on the valve body. I get the impression that because the wrighting on the actuator is the right way around you thing it's the right way around...

Has the valve been fitted in the correct orientation. There should be an arrow which shows the correct flow tthrough the valve. If its the wrong way around this could cause it to hold open.

For future refrence: When posting asking for advice on a matter you have no knowledge about please end it thus "I am a rude git who will be back to abuse you for your free advice at a latter date" Then everyone will know to just ignore you.

Is there such a thing as a good electric shower ?