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Set the system to auto part arm. If an exit zone i.e front door is triggered the system will full arm, otherwise it will part arm. That will be the same for both keypads. There isn't a way to set up what you want, but this should do just as well. The auto part arm option is in the area...

Better to plug in the router at the master point, then use Cat6 to run to network points and/or a switch than plug the router in on an extension.

Instead of running one sounder in SCB mode it's a better idea to run both in Low Current mode. There is a lower reduction in volume in LC mode.

Not sure how to do it via keypad sorry though you should be able to, it's well worth using wintex it makes programming so much easier. Does sound like a faulty sensor if another works in its place. Sometimes depowering and repowering can sort shocks though, so worth trying that before you...

Have u unchecked to Cust O/P 2a Tag option in Wintex ?, that should sort the disarm with tag problem. What happens when you walk test the sensors ?

Sorry Tony, but you can't just Gas Rate - OK - Done. Though I know alot that do. Some do even less than that, how they keep their GSR or even sleep at night is beyond me.

Sorry just reread your post. The svp needs an Intumescent collar on it also.

Intumescent mastic is what u want for sealling gaps. Larger holes need firestopping. The correct way to do it is to use coated fire batt then mastic over it. I've seen loads passed though that have been stuffed with fiberglass and masticed over. If possible you should do both sides of the wall

Any pipework outside the thermal envelope of the property I.e under the floor should be lagged. That's part of the regs too. Personally I would have taken the 25mm mdpe right too the stop tap.

I'm not saying it's been done right in your instance, just how it should/could be done. If one figure is Gross, and the other is nett they aren't too far out, but I would check a few things before I left it at that. If those are both Gross or Nett then something isn't right. I don't...

If your going to "gas rate" an appliance, all you need to do is compare the result to the data plate on the appliance as that will give you the heat input.

If its a new install then 1mb across the pipework is what's allowed. If the manufacturer says MINIMUM 22mm, they don't mean you can use 22mm so long as inlet pressure is atleast 16mb, you should use larger pipe so that the drop is less then 1mb across the carcass. What you can't do and should...

Less moving parts and no electronics v much greater efficiency on the whole. We live in a throw away society, and no one seems to complain that TV sets and computers won't last 25 years any more. Whats the difference ?

Given your description that would be my suggestion.

There are sizing calcs that could/should be done. Yes generally a 22mm pipe will provide a higher flow rate, though it can be undesirable in some circumstances as it takes longer to draw off water that's been stood in the pipes. In my own house I plumbed a 22mm cold feed up to the loft which...

awww Joe, you made a good post the other day about the idiot towel rail, why'd ya have to go and spoil it with more generalized crap.

First problem is it's a Ravenheat. Sorry to say it, but they aren't the best boilers. If it is a blockage in the HEX I doubt very much that chemicals alone are going to do any good. A powerflush might sort it. Your engineer ought to be able to test the DHW thermistor easily enough. He could...

I just looked at the vid you posted, all seemed OK until the burner and pump both seemed to cut together. It is hard to diagnose a fault on a 14 second video though.

2nd pump over run fault

Because your only allowed 1mb drop across the pipework. I get a little annoyed at manufacturers insisting a minimum sized pipework, the calculations are easy enough after all, I feel it kind of encourages people to either a) do DIY gas, or b) not bother with correct sizing. To the OP...