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Thanks, but do you mean they are there to help during installation and should be discarded? The way I read your post, you're saying that if the door is installed properly then run up blocks are superfluous.

Not sure if this plastic wedge shaped thingy is part of the door frame or a bit of leftover packaging - either way the bottom of the door is catching on it when it closes. There are similar fittings on the sides of some of my window frames too. Can anyone tell me if it should be there or not...

Thanks, I know that 'proper ethernet cable' would be best but I only have a coax network in the house. I think it's time to admit defeat and just use a wireless repeater.

Thanks all for your explanations.

The instructions with my water softener indicated that it should be plugged into an unswitched electrical socket (it has a mains lead with plug already attached). Can anyone tell me why it has to be unswitched please? I have a perfectly good switched socket nearby and don't really want to change it.

The cable is 'TX100' apparently, which I think is reasonable quality. I have had a look at coax networking (thanks for the tip) which is quite bewildering, but it seems feasible to distribute the signal with suitable splitters/amplifiers. I expect to have one wireless modem/router attached to...

Finally got the answer to this from the plumber, so I thought I would post it in case it helps someone else (or myself when I have forgotten it in a few months' time). In my case, the flush button is removed by pushing it to the left, then pulling up the left hand side. Thanks to everyone who...

TonyW2, thanks for your suggestion. There is some back/forward movement but it showed no willingness to come up when I pulled it either in the fully back or fully forward position. Doesn't mean you were wrong of course but I'm not brave enough to apply any more force at this stage.

That Caspia push plate does look just like it, thanks for the info, so I'm not going to try and prise it off. The underlying problem is that the flush doesn't work - there is resistance when I push either of the buttons and I can hear mechanical movement inside but there is no hint of water...

Thanks, I might try that but I was hoping for a definitive answer. The whole thing is boxed in and tiled, so if I drop a screw or clip etc. then I may not be able to retrieve it.

Can anyone tell me how to get to the flush mechanism behind this please? (see photo). I have tried pushing both buttons down but no sign of any screws or clips. http://media.diynot.com/103000_102065_50361_66643526_thumb.jpg

Thank you all for your comments and suggestions, looks like powerline adaptors for me.

Thanks, I will probably end up just using Freeview in the other rooms then. What about the broadband though? Can I connect the Virgin broadband to one of my wall connectors and then pick it up from others?

I have just moved into a house with coax outlets in all rooms (the screw-on type female socket), but currently not connected to anything. I have a separate Virgin media feed into the house, with TV and broadband. I'm wondering if the Virgin signal can be distributed around the house by...

Thanks for your replies, sounds like it was just a nasty rumour. Which is a relief as I'm about half through painting the house already.

I have always overlapped paint onto the window glass slightly when painting putty. However, I recently heard that only the gloss coat should go onto the glass and not the primer nor the undercoat as they don't adhere. Anyone know if that is true? It's normal linseed oil putty and Dulux oil based...

Sorry for the slight delay, was waiting for a new battery to be delivered. I powered down the panel as per your instructions, sounder went off as anticipated, then I attached the new battery and switched the mains on. No change however - the internal volume is still loud and the strobe is still...

Thanks both. I tried code + reset, that just set the alarm in the usual way (i.e. it ignored the reset). When I power down, presumably the siren will go off. Will it stop again as soon as I power up and enter the default code, or will it go on for the full 20 minutes regardless?

I disconnected the strobe, but the internal sounder is still on loud volume all the time. It occurred to me that the system is remaining in the alarm condition even though I have pressed the reset button and it is otherwise working as normal. Is it worth powering down the control panel...