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Yep, you will need to stick a 5 amp fuse spur inline before the double switch.

Easiest way is to run your lights from a switched fused spur, ran in parallel from the socket and that will act as your lightswitch. Just remember to put the 3 amp (or 5 amp) fuse in.

looks like a lightning strike

DONT!!!! They work loose over time especially if a fair amount of current has gone through them due to expansion/contraction (heating/cooling) and can overheat/catch fire! Using them on stranded conductors is fine, even better if the cable is more flexible (like tri-rated switchgear wire) but...

My mum collects quite a bit (last year was just over £1000) for the air ambulance for her display, costs about 50p/hour to run for 7 hours a day so much less than what gets collected. Shes tight on a main pathway where people walk through the estate so that does help. Just muggins here...

I fail other people's electrical tests, does that count ;)

no but it does make the streetlamp flicker ;)

Its a harmonic given off by the boiler spark. This will cause interference to the TV as the harmonic will over-ride the signal youre meant to be receiving. Depending on what channel youre watching, it can be more or less. Get a high pass TV interference filter and put it inline with the...

Heres ours, 2.8kW of lighting so easy enough to do... also http://www.aooy13.dsl.pipex.com/crimbo07/B.jpg and http://www.aooy13.dsl.pipex.com/crimbo07/C.jpg Bit windier today though, homer isnt stood up as straight lol! And my mums (with her neighbour) bout 7kW lighting on hers...

One thing that really annoys me about christmas lights is when they only give you 1.5 metres of cable on each rope-light sculpture. Mind you, not a prob for me as I have made a mint this year extending cables for people, and re-certifying each light ;)

I had the prob of downlights getting rather hot in my music studio, they are GU10 and cheap fittings but i managed to sort it by sticking some 11 watt megaman energy savers in its place as they run alot cooler. Only thing is they are dim for the 1st few mins but as they are on for like 8 hours...

You can use H07RN-F cable, as used in the theatre industry. Much more flexible and easier to work with, and very rugged. CSE cables are very cheap, link and specs below: http://www.csecables.com/flexible-cable/ho7rn-f.asp

it can also be a safety cut-out, which can be reset by pressing the (normally small red) button on it, it goes 'click' - this is normally situated inside the heater and often goes before the thermal fuse goes.

Yeah the timers out, very easy to put right if it werent for replacing the seal on it.

i got pretty immune to shocks,

Just go ahead and replace it as youre not altering any circuit at all. As an added suggestion whilst youre doing it, its worth going through the screw connections on the shower isolator switch and the mcb (or fuse) terminal just to double check they are still nice and tight, not worn loose...

Ive heard of that one too, people just switch the mains off at the CU and it backfeeds through the ring main into the CU. I would not recommend it to anyone, having worked on the network side of things i know what can happen!

Electric fan oven without a doubt! Much nicer to cook with than gas. Most electric ovens only need a 13 amp supply anyway and almost always come fitted with a 13 amp plug, just plug in and switch on. Best thing if you do find the outlet for the old cooker is to downrate the mcb to 16 or 20...

You should be able to get a copy pretty much hassle-free from the landlord (or council) Dont trust the results though, I have caught a few council sparkys out just 'filling in' these results without actually getting their test meter out. Only took a phone call to a person i know and they...

Its motor reactance that causes this, can cancel out the drive effect from the choke driving the fluorescent light. Quite a common one. Can easily be fixed by sticking a motor capacitor inline with either the feeds into the motor or into the light fitting. About 14 or 16uF upwards across your...