Search results

I'd strongly recommend manifolding two 24kW boilers as the loading in summer will be way too small for a large boiler to modulate down to. E.G DHW load, say two Megaflows in a large house, loading will be between 20kW (cold water) reducing to about 6kW (when nearly hot). Using two smaller...

The best way depends on which point you are starting from. Are you practical, capable, and reasonably intelligent? Do you understand how appliances work? Can you work out the bits which are missing, using reasoning and logic? Many successful CORGI registered installers cannot fault find, and...

...practice catching fish first with the rope trick, when you are catching them regularly you're ready to try catching the drain rods :roll: ...or maybe you could train a ferret to do rope tricks? ...or just get it to eat the 4 rods & the plunger. Seriously though, I sympathise with you...

Protherm is to reliable as Thameslink Trains is to 'on time'. There are numerous places this boiler could leak, and often does leak. If this leak is in the main heat exchanger you may not notice it except by the loss in pressure (repudiatory or not). If the heating system is large the...

Assuming you have a 3 port valve, try manually operating the lever (it usually has a latch position). Does the heating work now? If so consider changing the sync motor in the valve, or the valve head completely.

There are, I think, three parts to the diversion circuit on the VCW; the water section, the servo valve, and the diverter valve. there is a length adjustable link between the water section and the servo valve above it. This link could be badly adjusted, or semi-seized in it's guide bush. The...

.... but be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions, especially regarding the length of feed pipe without valves/isolators. The hot water needs somewhere to expand into. If you don't the relief valve will soon start to weep permanantly. Above 15l capacity you need Building Regs...

As far as I know you have to buy the complete gas valve.

CroydonCorgi is right, full efficiency is not achieved unless the return water is 56 C or less, however band A condensing boilers are usually well over 85%.....but we're getting off the point. You can keep the existing Y plan configuration, but you must have TRVs on ALL rads except in the...

Have you considered a broken clutch release bearing? Was this changed with the clutch? Likewise was the clutch spring changed (a cheap repair may have only had the friction plate replaced)? If one of the springs was broken on reassembly and is rattling around between the spring and friction...

OK, no EGR valve is fitted on this model, and the rattly noise comes from the camshaft driven vacuum pump which gives me brakes, hence the lower rattly noise when braking. Does anyone know if this engine has hydraulic tappets? And do they fail, giving less than normal valve lift? ...still...

Why not download and read Doc L1 for yourself (conservation of heat and power), it's free from the office of the (soon to be ex) Deputy PM? OK, it won't be the 2005 edition, but if you read the latest version you will get a taste of what is required, and can be better informed when talking to...

....like the comprehensive MIs with baths, WCs, and flat-pack furniture too :lol: :lol:

It's always hard to try to guess without the benefit of a first hand impression. As you're on this site I assume you don't mind getting your hands dirty. First ask yourself the following types of question:- When does the fault occur? When DOESN'T it occur? If it were one of the suggested...

No EGR valve present, and this is mechanical diesel injection, so none of those new fangled air flow meters on this van. Next step, I'll have to try to find some time to get the compression pressures checked. As it appears to be the only possible fault left it may be seen as a waste of time &...

Thanks for that, looks like it's the compression test then. I think I'll see if it has an EGR this weekend if the weather is good enough, if it does it may have stuck open causing excessive dilution of the oxygen content of the intake air - that would fit my symptoms, and be easier to inspect...

Careful you don't come out with freckles :lol: :lol:

Igorian, that's superb, thanks. I haven't tried it yet but it seems to be the right way to go. Will let you know how it turns out..... So, some help files really do help!

I had hoped the detail would have highlighted a problem, I know it's low on power because I had another 1.8D escort van immediately before it. I have also tried an Astra 1.7 dti with common rail ignition (which flies!) so I know how gutless the Escort Van can be. My old van would easily pull up...

...and it also looks like the pressure gauge is inaccurate too. 0.5 bar on your gauge may mean "almost zero pressure". The Halstead Finest Gold must have been named by an Estate Agent! The heating valves you mention should had scribed lines on them indicating the water pathways through them...