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...Or Suprima (Honeywell) gas valve solenoid coils which short to earth intermittantly and blow the supply fuse. Anyhow, a facinating discussion, devoid of bitching (apart from the spilling orrers), which I found both educational and illuminating - thanks to all contributors.

Suggest using a second pair of stillsons to hold the pipe/fitting which will remain, 'cause if this starts to turn you may get a leak at the other end.

Condensation dripping off the cold rising main perhaps, dripping from a low point? Water softener discharge not going where it should at 2am?

Because you have such a low suction head most manufacturers would not honour their g'tees in case of failure if you put it in the loft as described, but it's your money :? . Follow MIs and get the pump as low as possible, with piping that excludes air entrainment or airlocks. As said before...

Tony, Manchester is in a soft water area (this is a hard concept for Londoners to grasp), which means combis don't scale-up, boilers don't scale-up, kettle elements and DHW cylinders last FOREVER, and you can make a bar of soap last a month (well, I can :oops: ). Calgon isn't on Supermarket...

Got to disagree with Croydoncorgi on the point of throttling DHW cylinder return flow, the coil is just another heat emitter, and customers, whilst they do want "hot water now" probably don't want it at the expense of heating. Remember the DHW coil is just a coil of 28mm pipe inside a tank, as...

Any history here? Has it always done it? I assume you have a fully pumped system (3-port valve and all that), so piping error is suspected. There was another thread here today on the same subject.

Firstly eliminate the boiler. Isolate the gas by turning off at the meter, the Suprima drives the pump from it's PCB so it must be left on. Does the bang occur now on system start-up? Does it bang every time the system starts, coinciding with programmer timings? Does it bang shortly after...

OK. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Water regs. Wall thickness minimum the same as the pipe diameter, so for 22mm pipe you should use minimum 19mm wall thickness as 22mm outside diameter is 19mm inside (or bore)

Craig, firstly it's a toilet, not tolilet. Next I suggest you start by changing the diaphragm on the filling ballcock, it's probably that. :)

Aha!!! Have you had the syphon replaced, pehaps with one which is too short? In this case the water reaches the invert level before reaching the overflow level. Manually lift the ballcock when the water level reaches 2" from the top of the syphon - then flush. If the flush is OK set the...

I think Softus is refering to the Heating port here, not the DHW port which is normally fully open at this time of year. It's the heating port wich may have debris behind it, though looking at the evidence presented (new valve, twice checked electrically) that would seem remote. As the...

The boilermate is a heatstore and this may be the cause of your problems. You must be able to measure the resistances of the temperature sensors competantly, or call in an expert. In the meantime run the shower and check the outgoing hot water temperature at the Boilermate. If that's going...

You probably have a traditional syphon (lever flush) with internal overflow (no external warning pipe through your walls). Could be the ballcock needs replacing, repairing, or adjusting. Check the water level is 2" or more below the top of the syphon assembly, or 1" below the invert level of it.

I hope the OP (Ginadavid) is still watching or this is once again turning into a knockabout between others. Yes, you can relocate without needing exemption according to my LA Building Control. ....but as with any re-installation it must come up to modern standards, and in particular BS5440...

Definately indicates a blockage, or service valve nearly off. If you've cheched the pipework then check the tap(s) and dismantle/clean the WC filler (Torbeck?). My money is on a defective, blocked, or nearly closed connection in the house for exactly the reasons quoted above. Re-check the...

Cold will be at a higher pressure than the hot, so can flow higher rates through the same size of pipe. Consequently 15mm pipework will probably be adequate for the cold, though you will have to add a non-return valve to the cold pipe if you use mixer taps anywhere in the bathroom (to prevent...

Could be you have a leak caused by the original repair, sometimes disturbing connections causes others to fail. In any case a small amount of water will have evapourated by now so contact the repairer, if it's not a leak from the diverter valve you may have to pay some more, though a decent...

Robin, I read that you are asking whether it is necessary to have a non;return valve in the cold feed to the combi boiler's DHW system. Water Regs say action must be taken to prevent contamination of the supply. In this case the expansion of heated water would cause the cold mains to back-flow...