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Thanks for all the replies and suggestions, it's working, son is happy, end of story...... .....OK 'puter geeks, I know you're itching to find out what it was, so here goes. For those who are not interested skip two paragraphs... After much prodding and poking we (Son & I) decided that the...

Usually switched socket is only single pole, so the neutral isn't disconnected when just switched off, contrary to MI. Some modern sockets are double pole switched with 3mm contact separation, strangely the unswitched soket is preferred as the plug has to be removed to "switch" off. Anything...

Probably an air lock in the overhead pipework caused by poor design. Lower the point where the hot water pipe to the shower joins the main HW pipe so it is lower than the top of the cylinder.

First action is to turn off the hot water and remove the bath tap hw valve. Briefly let the hw run and see what comes out, then inspect and clean the valve as it's probably blocked with scale. As your other hw taps flow normally it is unlikely the DHW cylinder outlet is scaled-up, nor the...

Did you hear about the MD, the Chief Engineer, and the IT manager who were involved in a spectacular car crash when the brakes on the pool car failed and they plunged off the road, down a ravine, and eventually came to rest upside down at the edge of a sheer cliff-face? By some miracle no-one...

Not much experience with these cheap and nasty Italian boilers, though if you've found your DV full of gunge it's pretty certain the main heat exchanger is too, and the pump. It maybe this model has a flowswitch on the primary circuit which is stopping the boiler from firing. Suffice to say a...

And you could route port B of the valve to a hot water cylinder in the airing cupboard, and do away with the radiator :wink:

Depends on the make of flange, some have a split backing washer which can be "unscrewed" so a new rubber (nitrile) washer can be inserted. It's a bit fiddly and high risk (risk of it dropping into the cylinder) but fortune favours the brave....sometimes!!

Put a towel under the pump and remove the large plug at the end, a small amount of water will dribble out. Use a 3mm flat screwdriver to check that the pump shaft is free to rotate (not seized). Then put the power on and see if the pump shaft rotates before putting the plug back into the pump...

Seems like you have an aftermarket flange, sometimes called an Essex flange. After a few years the rubber seal deteriorates so any disturbance may cause the leak you tried to describe. The solution is to renew the fitting which includes partially draining the cylinder and removing the immersion...

I've also found partial blockages where the primary water enters the diverter valve. This port is on the front on this boiler, so easy to check once the boiler is drained.

If you can get hold of a pair of long nose pliers use them to grab the shaft of the broken knob and turn it gently. It's like a radio switch, first a click, then increasing temperature as you rotate further clockwise. Is the timeclock running (clock turning, or digital display on)? Does the...

...and the blockage is downstream of your flat. Lift the inspection covers and observe the flows. Rod the drain back from the first "empty" gully.

If I'm right you have three pumps on that system, one for the primary water, one for the CH, and the third for the DHW heat exchanger. On first impressions it sounds like the primary pump is not working properly so the boiler is overheating and banging, the heat store doesn't get up to full...

RtFI. :x I refer you to my previous post. Please read it first, especially sentence two.

That'll make some noise That wouldn't be a "screwdriver" slot 1/4 turn ball valve would it? Use one of these to restrict flow and your rather accurate description of the noise holds true. Use a proper stop-cock and the noise will be reduced significantly.

Cougar, feel the pipes near to the boiler, do they get horrendously hot near to the boiler but cool only a few feet away? If so it's a lack of circulation thing (though not necessarily pump related). An old colleague once told me the Glowworm Fuel/Space-saver has a strainer on the return pipe...

Try using a length of plastic pipe to shove it back up the sewer, if it's only 10' you should be able to give it a good shove back upstream.

Have I missed something here? Are we now not allowed to repair things at all, rather than not allowed to "change the operation or design such that it may....compromise the safety....blah, blah". Following the former train of thought to its conclusion should mean we shouldn't bend igniton...

Stage one completed..... Read the user instructions if you want to know what the lights mean, I can never remember and have more important things with which to fill my (limited) memory. Stage two...events so far SEEM to indicate a failed sync motor, whether it's a year or a day old that's...