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...and the purpose of your post is?......to create a row perhaps. I could do the same by coming into one of your Glasgow boozers and shouting "jocks are a drain on the British tax-payer". The fact is all these rows have been done before, so move along and lets get on with sorting out some...

The air pressure switch on the Vaillant has a reputation for failing, as it is not a particularly expensive item, and is easy to access I suggest you change this, then wait and see.

Don't forget, there must never be any valve between the boiler flow and the open vent, so it might be better to put the zone valve on the return connection (usually the bottom cylinder connection). You may also need to close couple the cold fill and vent to reduce the risk of pumping over...

If it's similar to the Puma there's a dedicated flow swich with a microswitch attached; pulling one of the wires off and insulating it should get the heating to go until a new switch can be fitted, but without DHW. Again, if it's like the Puma the switch is adjustable, so you may be able to wind...

Can you remove the 3 port actuator head? If so do so, and check the valve isn't seized or stiff as this would cause the system to only operate when CH and HW were demanded. Does the actuator drive fully over when removed, CH and HW are ON, and the HW cylinder stat is turned down? It could...

You've just answered the question, the DV is moving as it should, so does the pump start (listen for it) and the boiler fire-up as a result? Does the flame go out again after a few moments?

Check the pump is running (turning), usually by removing the large slot headed screw and inserting a small flat bladed screwdriver to mate with the pump shaft. With the power off you should be able to spin it easily, with the power on and the large screw replaced you should hear the pump...

Definitely a gas valve problem IMO. The flap which shuts off the main gas flow is sticking slightly open which is maintaining the pilot. When the main solenoid energises the pressure to the pilot (and the burner) drops to a very low level which causes flame out on the pilot. It also sounds like...

Spare parts direct from Gledhill, they're on Squire Gate Ind Est in Blackpool.

New bits in CCN1 also include medium pressure supplies and regulators, and tightness testing with these installed.

I have concerns that the flue position will not meet BS5440 in its current form, as this is a natural draught terminal and it's nigh on impossible to get a boiler position which satisfies the positioning criteria. 20 years old MI will be way out of date, so what was OK then probably won't be OK now.

On a typical system (if there is such a thing) start with this 15mm "mystery valve" about 1 turn open. Turn the CH only on and shut down all the rads, then the temp differential across the boiler flow and return pipes should not exceed 15C (or manufacturer's figure), but you'll have to be quick...

From memory they went from Wilo to CP(Myson) From my experience I see probably ten times as many Grundfos UPS 15/50 pumps as all the other makes put together (excluding OEM in system and combi boilers). I have changed several broken CP pumps under one year old, probably never a Grundfos under...

Ravenheat or Biasi :!: :!: ....yuk Though you'll certainly be increasing the odds of future repair work with these nuggets.

Is this a backboiler? In any case look at the pilot when it tries to fire, there should be a good strong spark, and the pilot should just envelope the spark area when it lights (just before the main burner). It may be cured by having the boiler serviced, though you may have to have some...

Easy and quick cowboy, Turn off the water and flush/drain the cistern. Check the rubber(?) washer at the base of cistern has not disintegrated, then tighten the (plastic) nut at the base by a small amount using low torque (assuming plastic filling valve). If the seal has perished you'll...

Is the pump the correct way around? I suggest you stop the system, then bleed all the rads. Start it up again on minimum speed, increasing to medium speed after a few seconds, then turn off all the rads which work. Does this make any of the remaining rads work? Stop the system when hot...

Have you checked that the cold feed (from the F&E tank usually to the base of the cylinder coil) is not blocked? Did the system fill up properly after the rads were changed?

If you can hammer the floor, ie not ceramic tiled, you may be able to hear a change in note as the hollow under the floor is bashed. As solid floors usually have a concrete slab base with a 2"-3" screed over the top in which the pipes are laid, if there is no sign of damp it could be because the...

There's a connector with two red insulated wires from the PCB which go to the fan. Check there's 230vac between these pins on the PCB, then measure the resistance between these red wires, it should be less than 50 ohms, else you may have a duff fan or poor connections.