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No sorry I shouldn't hav mentioned 300mm. The hole is 200 and I wasn't sure how deep to put the non compacted type one. As if I fill it to 200 then compact it, it would be less than 200mm. Sorry I wasn't very clear.

Thanks guys, I'll be able to get it ordered tomorrow now. The new part of drive is off to the side of the existing drive but should be able to tip straight on to where it needs to go. I'm buying loose as bagged I've been quoted £25 a bag. Loose direct from the quarry is £10 a tonne.

Sorry I have re read my post and can see the confusion. I need a finished level of 200mm. I was wondering if 300mm was about right as in spread it to 300 and compact it using a compactor. Would that finish to about 200? The reason for going so deep is I'm putting hard core down, then gravel...

Hi all, I have an area of 27m2 that I want to have a drive on. I want to have 200mm of hardcore after being compacted by a plate vibrator. How much does hardcore compact? Should I order 27m2 by 300mm or even more? Thanks Darren

Thanks, it's for paving slabs. The concrete 3x2 things. But want to do the underneath properly as I'm getting the slabs for free from gumtree. But one day it will be monoblocked. But that is in the future as its a big area and need to save the pennys!

I am about to start digging for my slabbed drive. Currently my front garden runs beside my drive, the grass is raised about 20cms above the drive. I want to cut away the front half of the grass to put in slabs to park my van or car on, I don't want it to sink away due to the weight of maybe...

The water that goes to the radiators is completely separate to the water that goes to the taps

By the sound of it I think this boiler is fine and your old one was faulty. If you have heating switched off then no heat should go to the radiators ever.

Look underneath it may have over heated. There is a hole that if you look up will have a red bit. Try pushing it. If it has overheated you'll need to find out why.

purely cosmetic, i'd change it, but that's just me, i freak out in customers houses if pictures are hanging squint and have to restrain myself from straightening them!

Is it a diesel? If so try cleaning the maf sensor and egr valve. I'd do the gr valve first. Mine used to do that a lot. There is lots of info on Renault forums about that.

I've used LS-X for a temp repair before, didn't expect it to work, but it was great. Lasted the 3 days until I got the part. Think it would have lasted forever

If you want I can put you in touch with some monkeys to hang radiators, I'll take my computing degree, electronics background and my multimeter and work out what's wrong with the boilers that break down because the heat teams were on price work and didn't commission them properly to save time...

I was one of these a few years ago and I can confidently say i do a more thorough service than any of the time served ex bg guys at my work. I'm also much better at fault finding than most of them.

The yellow lever is the gas to the boiler, but I think if it almost lines up with the pipe it should be ok.

Don't mean to doubt you but when you topped up the pressure or at any other time have you maybe touched the yellow lever? It should go the same direction as the pipe so long way pointing towards you.