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sounds like combi running some taps and a fully pumped sealed system running a vented tank and heating.the plumbing sounds fine just the wiring seems very erratic no room stat just means boiler will stop firirng when boiler gets to temp then refire as the heat is pumped away.as for no heating...

yes if u have hot water tanks it means it a open vented system.does the boiler have a pressure gauge and if so what does it read and how many valves do u have on the pipework

http://www.idealboilers.com/fault_assistant/icos_h_faults.html

sounds as if the coil in the tank or nearby pipes full of air.you will have a valve near the tank this will have a small lever on the side try moving this from one side to the other and see if you can hear air moving.try putting it on hot water only turn off gas and leave running for a few hours...

its perfectly fine to have a combi running a fully pumped system.sounds like he has plumbed it right but got the electrics all wrong.it needs rewiring as a fuuly pumped y plan with room stat controling switched live to combi.you must have a unvented hot water tank i assume

change divertor valve 65 quid and 30 min to do if mechanicly minded.leaky primary heat exchanger sounds very unlikely.105 a good boiler sounds to me like he doesnt fancy spending time diagnosing the problem n gone easy route ie a new boiler.if plate exchanger is getting hot when heating on its...

what happens when u reset the boiler ?does it fire for a while or not at all

are u sure its not just diverter valve passing and return just up to temp too soon

is the plate exchanger getting very hot while it is doing this ?

yep isar shows a p when in frost protection mode.as far as i am aware they all have.but ideal state it only covers boiler not pipework

boiler has inbuilt frost protection this will be cutting in on a night if in roof space i would imagine.this will fire boiler for a short while till flow reaches temp

it simply means when original stat fitted they omitted the neutral which gives u a better reading but still works with out.wire as u described with 2 wires and will work fine

cheers :) will try quoting that at him tnx again for the replys

tnx again for the replys .my trouble is that i bond as near to the meter as i can without having to damage any property and the inspectors keep failing them and expect us to trunk or chase across newly decorated rooms.then say that within practical means is not right and say 600 mm is gospel

tnx for the answers still no hard fast rule then.just wish laminate had never been invented loli am a plumber and when i wire a boiler can take longer to do this and more expensive than changing the xxxxxx boiler

hi a question i am sure u all had thousand times before but when main bonding a gas meter i know it is ment to be bonded at meter or as close as poss.but in some cases this is impossible (unless u go over the roof lol) ie 600 mm.some tell me this rule is golden but some bodies tell you as...

sounds like air n circulation issues. but the icos does seem to run very hot and bang on some poor systems try knocking boiler stat back 10%

is better to use a meter and see if live moves from one terminal to another when fan starts.i take it the fans does run when you try to get heating?

not enough info on the pics for me to tell.need to see what wires go into the tank.but immersion does not need to be tuned on it is only for back up if boiler fails

remove the user control by removing the small screw underneath (not the whole unit leave mains switch and mounting panel on) the pcb will fire boiler and run at max if it does not does this then it is divertor.but doing this eliminates the user pontimeters