Search results

Christ, that's a lot of coats. On the couple of occasions I've painted plasterboard, I just gave one mist-coat of 75/25 paint/water, and then a couple of normal coats.

Speaking from experience with a shower screen, it's definitely important to not seal the inside, especially at the bases.

As above, weigh the cost of a replacement shower with the cost of putting in a thermostatic shower (if possible). It will likely be cheaper, and vastly superior; doing the above was one of the best moves I ever made.

Electric sanders are the way forward, just tape a wet and dry to the outlet.

As Agile says, it will always be cheaper to heat as required; how much cheaper is another matter. In a well insulated house, there probably won't be much in it. My other half does shift work and the pattern varies weekly; I also have a pet. Putting the heating on 24/7 didn't make much...

I normally take off the cap and put it somewhere to dry, then put a little tape/clingfilm over the cartridge and put a spare cap on. Next time I need the tube, I'll just pull one big easy piece of dried silicon out of the cap, and re-use it.

I'll give you my limited experience from the five I've painted in my home. Special radiator paint is a waste of money. The spray-cans allow for an easy finish, but they don't go far, don't save you much time, and cost a fortune. That was my first radiator. I've used oil-based undercoat...

From the top of the insulation, up to the roof. Provided you do that, and the insulation isn't on the soffit vents, you'll be fine.

Most homes in the UK have simple plasterboard ceilings, and they don't have soaking lofts - you're worrying about it too much. Any plastic you put down under the insulation would be going on top of the joists, so if there was actually any moisture, it would be trapped against the wood. I'd...

If it's bare plaster, then I'd start with a mist coat.

If the paint came off back to the plaster, it may have been due to lack of a mist coat years ago. I would expect to see/feel some damp if that was the cause.

The previous post was advert spam, it will be gone soon. If the area doesn't feel damp, there is no mould, and the previous paint was fine - I wouldn't worry.

Assuming there's no damp, which I'm sure you'd have mentioned, I'd get rid of any loose paint and sand/sugar-soap the walls. You should be safe to repaint.

What was the old paint; silk? What state was the wall in before painting?

Having done this myself, with no bricklaying/mortaring experience - don't be daunted. Just take your time, and put some masking tape around the surrounding bricks, so you don't get mortar all over.

I generally just dig out the crack, apply with filler (leading a bit proud), then sand flush once fully dry. Once the wall is painted, it should be invisible.

It's got to be a pipe running close to the central heating, as suggested above. Since it takes 20 seconds, it's probably some distance away from the tap.

I'd just sand and sugarsoap the walls, filling in any divots you discover; then crack on with the painting.

You'll need to use a maintenance-free junction box, if the wiring won't be accessible.

Ah, touché! ;)