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What's installed on the other side of the check valve (it has albion printed on the side of it).

Can you check if that black valve is a quarter turn valve or a gate valve? I.e. do you have to fully open it? Can you hear water rushing in when you turn the valve?

Well, If you are happy with the functionaility of the valves and have recently checked their operation to ensure that they work as intended, then by all means reuse them. You can reuse everything, but remember, you are dismantling fittings that have been in one set position for a long...

Rad tails should come with the valves you order (check with the supplier), if you are having new valves. If not, get new ones, since the old ones will already have seen an olive and might have a bit of wear on the threads etc.

Ok, The flexi hose (braided silver thing) is your filling loop. Firstly, check your pipework (since it looks like a complete maze of pipe back there). From left to right (straight out of the boiler) the connections are: - CH Flow (has the gauge fitted) DHW Flow Gas Inlet (Yellow...

Can you take a better picture of the full pipework arrangement under the boiler please. Also, can you get a better picture of the valve that is on the left side (connected to the flexible braded hose).

Black valve? They were talking about the silver valve on the start of the flexi hose! Make sure you turn the valve and don't try and turn the check valve. If any of the above doesn't make sense, google a picture of each to confirm what has been mentioned. I think all you succeeded in...

Cleaning back to bright metal should always be a best practice really, it ensures there are no bumps / scratches in the pipework, or leak paths underneath the olive, I assume this is the same for the sealing face of a pushfit. I know it's a pain in the neck, but it's best to do so. At least...

Quick question, have you got service valves underneath the bath, supplying the hot & cold feeds? Check the hot is fully open. Washer may have perished in the tap and stuck down. You could also have an airlock in the hot pipework. If the lever that switches from shower to tap is broken...

Sorry, skipped over the 'newly built' bit. Definately not microbore then :oops:

That's a microbore system, if I understand you correctly? Google it and see.

Have you drained the CH, cos the dial is on 0 Bar? Who did this work for you, they didn't refill the system. :shock:

Has this recently happened with and has the tap/shower mixer been in for a while? What is the model of the tap, if you know it?

In order for him to run a flow and return, he will need to repipe completely anyway. You're going to be coming off (probably) a 22mm main for both the flow and return, to 15mm T's going into and out of the rads. You would only be able to salvage so much anyway. :)

What TRV are you using, some won't work properly when fitted vertically.

I don't follow what you are saying about the TRV? It will sense the air temperature around it and then shuts down, so it will only shut down once it's surroundings have reached the temperature you have set it at. Are you sure the rad has been sized correctly for the lounge? What TRV...

Well, as previously stated by Dan... crack on then.

You may not need to pay someone to thread pipework or lay a run that will eventually be connected to the system by a Gas Safe Engineer, but you will not know what effect on the flow rate etc, additional short radius bends will have. Ideally, if you knew how the pipework should be run and in...

Agreed Tony, unfortunately NPT cannot be used in this instance. Basically I work with guys who don't always replace the dowty washers, because it's not always obvious when they have been used. With a copper washer, you can tell it has been compressed. I just thought I'd ask on the off...

I have found some dowty washers that are capable of withstanding the pressure I need, but I am just trying to find out if I can get it in copper washers as I have seen them used on 5000 psi pressure tests in the past. Thanks GG