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Yup, as stated, isolate and cut internally and remove the pipework and valve externally. You may find this useful if the pipework runs straight through. http://www.screwfix.com/p/hose-union-back-plate/56415

Yeah, i'd be suprised if it's 22mm copper pipe, I just used it as an example. If you are confident using a tape measure then I wouldn't take the old one out until you have a new one to fit though. You will have to leave the water off for longer if you don't already have a inline valve before...

Test for leaks at every stage of a new connection if possible. Once they are in the wall, and covered you are at the mercy of the Gods. Can I use plastic pipes or do they have to be copper? Plastic or copper, no one will see it so it wont bother anyone. Just remember to protect copper...

Measure the outside diameter of the copper pipework that goes into the compression end of the flexi hose. The Fill valve inlet will be 1/2" BSPP, but just check the outside diameter of that as well. Measure the full length of the flexihose. Then you will be able to tell you are looking...

Yes, the nearer the arrestor to the valve, the better, isn't not going to absorb much shock if it's 5 meters away for instance. Either type - piston or diaphragm are fine.

As far as he is aware, there is no movement obvious apart from the crack. Foundations seem to be sound. If I need to provide additional details, please let me know what else I need to tell you.

So the water pressure isn't the issue. Install an arrestor before each problematic valve if it's causing you concern. Don't bother with the hollow air filled ideas, since they will eventually become water logged and useless.

Your shopping list is fine. Your methodology seems to be sound, providing you know how to use Hep2O correctly. Read up online if not. Reason other parts of your house have pushfit and other dont: - Plumber preference? When the pipework was installed etc etc..... Is the existing...

Is the pressures relatively balanced for cold / hot water or is the cold water supply pressure significant in comparison?

Have you checked what your incoming water pressure? Perhaps that can be reduced if it's very high.

What else draws hot water in that room? Are you just experiencing it in the basin? What type of taps is installed?

Don't tighten the new one up with stillsons or mole grips (whatever you used to chew that fitting to bits). It seals on a piece of rubber, it won't need that sort of force to get it to be leak free. Remember, the trap will have water in it when you take it apart, so have a small container...

You could use monobloc tap connectors (flexi) to push fit fittings: - For instance: - Pipe - isolating valve - pipe - tap connector - tap. That way you can get rid of the existing valves if they are a problem.

Promax 15/2,24/2 & 30 HE Plus?

That would be a good starter for 10.

You need a good flow on these one pipe systems, if the flow is being restriceted by use of wrong TRVs on all the rads then you are likely not getting the heat out of your system that you should.

A colleague of mine has asked about the cracks in his conservatory wall. He believes it a breeze block wall with render and pea shingle. It has a crack approximately 1/4" wide. He has heard that there is some sort of epoxy resin / mastic that can be used to fill the gap. Rather than chasing...

They have to be TRVs for single loop systems, otherwise they will not work properly.

Have you got standard TRVs fitted then?

creating a seperate circuit should slove your problem then. Provided you can do the nessasary pipework modification without disturbing those lovely floors.