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Get a measurement of 12.6 mm on the inner ring? Thats DN12! Found this for you, pipe spec, page 2! http://www.jouleuk.co.uk/uploads/images/solar%20pipe/UK_Solar%20Pipes%20A4.pdf

Well, you are right and you are wrong, lol, :lol: The measurement comes from the inner ridge of the corragated section. So DN16 is 16.5 mm OD of the inner ridge, where as the raised ridge edge will be 21.4mm They refer to this as the inside diameter, although it is not to be confused...

DN stands for Nominal Diameter and is measured in mm, so yes, DN16 is roughly 16mm, the same way that DN100 is roughly 4" pipe. Pipe isn't generally measured on nominal bore, as you aren't always going to have the luxury of measuring a wall thickness.

So you got the supplier out who said there was no problem with the supply, but they did find trace mud in the sample? Doesn't that sort of contradict itself? You determined that all the cold water outlets were mains fed, so the problem is most likely to do with the mains. You determined...

Very true, I should have clarified that the vibration and lack of function was due to fitting the TRV contraflow.

Maybe you have a substantial leak on your radiator pipework? Getting someone in is your best bet if you cannot re-pressurise, but tell him exactly what you have done, to all the valves and the boiler. Well, just to fill in the blanks for you: - On a sealed combi central heating system...

If they are bi-directional, it won't matter, if they aren't then they will vibrate and not function correctly.

I guess my only gripe would have been about him not informing me that the pipe was inadequantely supported, but thats just me.

That's what I was thinking, but, I assume he is replacing the valve internals rather than stripping it back to the 150mm pipe centers.

Leave it "open" until the pressure gauge says 1.5 bar. This should not take long at all, so check the gauge and use common sense for closing the blue valve if nothing is happening. Adjustable stop cock on the cold water supply to the house? That needs to be open, otherwise what water will...

Dont touch any of the valves under the boiler. The yellow valve under the boiler is the gas inlet, you shouldn't be touching that at all. What are you calling the stop cock? Have you isolated att cold water supply to the house or are you taking about the black valve under the boiler...

Ok, see the blue turn key on the valve off the T-piece? I would turn that open (it only turns quarter of a turn so we dont use alot of force) the pressure gauge on the boiler should be watched at the same time to make sure it starts rising. all this should be done slowly and shuting the...

Looks like we are getting somewhere. :) What is the pipe that the blue hose goes into? Trace that pipe! You say you traced the pipe that goes from the far left of the boiler to the T piece shown in the picture, just double check that it does indeed reduce down to 15mm pipework.

Ok, so, you need to trace the two pipe lines that come out of the very left hane side of the boiler, 22mm central heating pipework. This should have a T off of it, either the flow or return pipework. The pipe that comes out of the very right of the boiler is the Domestic cold water in pipework...

Show me what that black hose is connected to?

You should have a filling loop fitted between the flow/return pipe for your central heating system and the cold water supply to the boiler. http://cdn0.vokera.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/compact-24se-user-and-installation-manuals.pdf

Lower down on the pipework, is there a braided silver hose?

Are you talking about the TRV? If so, modern TRV's can be fitted on the flow or return, so it doesn't really matter. Most people still fit them on the flow though out of habit.

Repost in the forum section called 'appliances' sue. you may get some answers there.

If it were a friend of mine, i'd be round to have a look straight off the bat to check. Additionally, have you ever seen how fast a dehumidifier fills up it's catchment? As Ree stated, it would need emptying regularly.