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Needs to be on joist, or if easier put a batten in.

If it's leaking into the bowl and it's not the overflow it must be the flush valve seal. Take it out again, clean, dry, clear silicone on the seal , put this under the rubber seal too and reassemble.

Do what's been suggested above, latch this valve to manual open, then set the hot water to come on. If it's reached its hot water temperature, then run the hot tap for a bit. See what happeneds. Check check the valve is still latched to manual.

I guess you could also try and 'jump them' before you start it, with a jump lead from the battery + to one glow plug. I had a 1998 fiat scudo I think? (Edit: yup w reg) I had the same problem as you, I was using easy start to start it until I found the problem. Turned out the glow plug...

Get the money then sell up!

So.......I've got this broken boiler....... :?

Ooo.and I've just noticed the twin and earth has lost its colour.

Just screw it with some 90s or 100mm screws. We normally nail gun them, with a screw in the middle.

I agree...!

Ditto, brass nut on top isn't the nut that came with the valve, it should be chrome coloured. If the flow is at the top and that's where the leak is, turning the valve won't help. ...and most pros don't use ptfe on those fittings.

Standard cooper pipe will do, or plastic.

Just using it for small holes, rawl plugs, chips etc. No matter how many times we sand it down (lightly or not) and repaint (many coats) it still crazes.

When's the last time you used it? We are finding the paint is crazing over the filler, we have tried watering the paint down. Due to this we have been trying different brands.

Once painted you'll never notice.

Do you have an old nozzle that was working ok you can try. They normally get left near/inside boiler after a service.

But we want 20o yes?

Rip it out and fit a new front

Well yes, I got that bit. But why? I'm not a heating engineer, so is there something I'm missing? What's the point in 28mm pipe work if the flow and return is 22mm?