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The junction box is loose on top of the wall units, along with about a metre and a half of cable. There's a cable runs from an isolation switch on the tiled wall, up the back of the units into the junction box, then the cable comes back down behind the unit and was hard wired into the old...

There's no room for a surface mounted socket, the wall is tiled and the cable the original hood was plugged in to feeds down loose behind a wall unit, and i'm after a quick fix. Can the hood not just plug into the extension socket if I add it to the end of the cable? What is the purpose...

I've removed a very old cooker hood that was hard wired above our cooker and want to install a new one. Problem is, the new hood has a plug attached and I don't want to try hard wiring it. So my question, is there any way of attaching a 'portable socket' to the cable that supplies power...

I can't say for certain that I've sorted the dodgy line under the worktop, all I've done is fit a new socket and cut away the heat damaged wire to new bare copper. I did check the fuse in the switch above the worktop and it was fine, swapped it for another too and same problem. If it...

Thanks John, I might just get my mate in to see what's what, feel like I've got as far down the DIY road as I can go on this one, plus I need a couple of extra sockets putting in to so he may as well do everything at the same time.

Followed a previous poster's advice and cut back and stripped any damage wire to bare clean copper, wired everything back up in the new socket i bought and still same problem happening- socket appears live but nothing works in it. I've attched a couple of pics of the isolation switch for the...

Tested it with the volt pen - it bleeped before knocking the power off, then didn't bleep once the power was off, so I assumed as much as I could that it was dead. Grabbed hold of it... dead.

Yes there is a switch above the worktop to turn the socket on or off. I did consider if this could also be the cause but everything worked fine until I unplugged the washing machine from the socket, so I'm presuming it's something wrong with the socket as a previous poster said, the heat damage...

By supply end you mean the main fuse box for the house? What would I check there it's all just circuit breakers isn't it? And yes I turned off the supply by flicking both the kitchen and ground floor circuit breakers before opening the socket.

And the lost neutral scenario.... obviously there is a neutral wire on the socket and it is connected, so what is meant by the term 'lost'? Damaged?

Sorry I wrote the wrong thing back there, I DO KNOW the yellow/greens are earths, it's because I had that 'lost neutral' thing in my head that must have made me write 'two neutral' wires. Anyways thanks for the responses, I'll try cutting the wires back and see if that works, I'm hoping it...

Thanks for the replies. So in terms of 'cutting back' I presume you mean shorten the wires slightly and take some of the plastic covering off. Not sure what you mean by re terminate (stick them back in the faceplate?) or lost neutral? I've changed the faceplate for a new one as can be seen...

I pulled out our washing machine to lift some old vinyl flooring from underneath it, unplugged the power cable and then when i was done plugged it back in and pushed the washing machine back under the work top..... only for it to stop working. I've investigated, the washer works in another...