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I havn't seen one that was not supplied with the pipe tails when new :!: I have a few tails lying arround the garage, but they can be bought from a merchants seperately.

These days most screw in. So, Does the tap have threads in the casting ?

probably feeds the shower or the cold water storage tank. I bet the chances of getting lead poisoning from this repair are less than getting struck by lightning.

Certainly if it's a monoblock tap you need a screw in tap tail. They are available in copper or flexi hose type. This one £2 screwfix.

I often use plumbers mate but keep it a thin layer. I'm also toying with the idea of using liquid thread lock on central screw type bath wastes cos I've had a couple work loose recently. Any one else had this trouble ?

economics usually dictate that roof rafters are only strong enough to hold their own weight and that of the roof structure (tiles ect). The function of any joists should be to transmit any load to load bearing walls. It sounds like your plans will need building regulations approval and I...

easiest way might be to move the bog and the soil stack onto another outside wall if that is an option. otherwise the other way I would do it would be to keep the bog where it is, move the stack to another outside wall away from the top of the flat roof and run the soil pipe from the bog...

average man weighs about 75 Kg, you could possition it over a supporting wall (if there is one) to avoid the cielling cracking.

try running water into the bath from the taps. If it don't leak then its not going to be the drain. Like chris says take the pannel off and look what happens with the shower running. Don't use the shower with it leaking or it could be joists that get damaged and not just floorboards.

Thats a lota house dude. DIA you must be an expert on clay tiles if you've been there a few years. I'll tell you somefin else too, if the flat roof on that stone mullioned bay window starts leaking your gonna need a good plumber :P

post a picture of the tap

if the boiler is firing with the electric conections to the valve disconected then surely it can't be a fault with the valve causing the boiler to fire with the controls off.

cut the pipe and blow into the ends using narrow plastic tube to force out as much water as possible. alow to drain for an hour or so

when they move, should be able to hear the motor run for about 3-4 seconds.

don't forget to isolate the electric first. It sounds like the valve needs a new motor.

air in the pipes ?

you might get away with an offset pan conector

I'm not a corgi gas fitter but I understand any flue should terminate more than 300m from the eaves, the reason being condensation could cause rot. I'm sure I have read somewhere that for a condensing boiler this should be 1m (1000mm). Any how this document...

I understand that the electrical certificate is currently voluntary and the only legal requirement for a landlord is a gas certificate.

trap seal loss in basin or bath. Could be debris in the trap causing siphonage.