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If it's leaking at the white section, remove the threaded end, clean the rubber washer what is underneath it & the pipework is was on, replace on the pipe and remake the connection. That should solve your problem for now, but, you could probably renew the whole thing yourself without too much...

Thanks Tony, I know that a copper washer will be able to withstand pretty much all applications for a household pressures, I am looking to use one at about 10,000 psi so that's why I ask. I know it's an odd question. I'm just seeing if it is suitable for using it on a sealing face for a...

Bit of a strange one... How do I find out the pressure rating of a copper washer?

After some advice really. My living room was extended a few years back, so part of it has another floor above it and part of it just has an extension with a flat roof and double sliding doors, all of which (the extension) is exposed. Where as the original lounge is only two walls exposed...

Personally, I would think that it is your filling loop, although the manual suggests that it should be connected to the return pipework rather than the flow. The valve on the other end is a double check valve, to prevent back flow (don't touch it). To fill, I would open the valve with the...

I presume you have them set via a digistat to come on at these times in the morning and evening? Have you checked what temperature you have them set at for evening and morning?

I believe that you will be applying them directly to your radiators then. Have a read or fernox and sentinel products for leak sealant. You will be able to make an informed decision :)

Glad you managed to sort your problem out.

It sounds like the thermostatic cartridge in the mixer shower has reached the end of it's life. But, a couple of things first: - What make and model is the shower? Can you gain access to the valve itself? The filter on the hot inlet may be fully clogged, resulting in a primarily cold...

Depends on the type of leak as to its effectiveness. Have you got a combi or a open tank in the loft?

I guess you've already checked all visible pipework then? Have you considered a leak sealant?

And find and fix the leak on your CH system.

So long as you know what each pipe is connected to (for certain) you can remove whatever you like. What you don't want to do is to accidentally disconnect a supply to something, so just make sure you reconnect to the DCW main, ensuring that all supply pipe from it has not been left disconnected.

I guess you have tried to reset the boiler and that did nothing? Would you say that the boiler just doesn't recognise the demand that is being put on the CH from the thermostat? If you think the diverter valve is functioning correctly, I can only think it is the link between the thermostat...

Apologies, I looked at the wrong tap. :oops:

Fit a single check valve on the hot and cold inlets. I think this tap mixes in the body, so fit the check valves to prevent back flow. :) It won't cost alot and your are probably re running pipework anyway. Glad you told me the model now.

What is the make and model please? Generally it is not needed. Check the MI with your new mixer valve just to check though!

The tap he used, was it a mixer tap or was it purely a hot tap only? What specifically caused them to think that there was an issue? Shower too cold? Taps too cold?

Then that really is a total waste of energy. He is trying to install a central heating system in the house, so that it will warm the property efficiently. Personally, I think you should let him get on with it and forget the back boiler, since it is likely to be removed anyway.

Isn't his solution to replace it with a central heating system.