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Looking at the essex tap kit it looks like they are for ceramic sinks ..mine is an acrylic bath

I got a couple of white plastic cap things to go under the tap from the plumbing shop then tried using the new brass nut and washer on that....it seems that whenever i tighten the washer right up it spins out at one side ....ive nipped it up just now but never overtightened it then gunned it...

Wont seal as the plumbers made a complete ass of fitting the tap...the bath has a slight angle and he has basicly cut the hole too close to this so front side seals whilst the back is loose....im goubg to have to go back to screwfix again for another set of plastic washers to bulk it up so both...

Tried tightening and one of the plastic nuts broke.....also when i lifted the tap out the rubber seal wasnt seated in the groove and the bottom bit of the tap was loose....personally i dont think the loose bit is the issue just a case of a bad seal....off tro screfix for some brass washers

My tap didnt come with anything else...just tap black rubber and on the black nut is a groove for the rubber

Cheers andy.....are these tap nuts all the same size ?....or will i need to get the Cheers andy.....the plastic nut seems to be a 32 mm spanner size...is this tool ok for it

There are rubber washers between the black plastic bolt and the underside of the bath i just cant get anywhere near them to tighten..do the make deep sockets or something similar

We just finished our bathroom but after using the shower i decided to pop off the bath panel to make sure there was no leaks round the silicone only to find that there is water getting through from the black plastic bolts underneath the taps....the space is too tight to get a spanner in to nip...

Much appreciated guys...thanks

going off ....does that mean fully set?........cheers

Once you have filled your bath and sealed round it with silicone...when do you let the water out . Do you leave it over night till its dry or do you empty right away?

Advice taken john and it will be something that we deal with next year and we will also be looking to move the new cu to the back wall in the cupboard to make it more accessible and more compliant with regulations.....cheers

Does it really matter....i only asked about wiring up a bath...its being done next week and going throught my garage cu as it has an rcd...why bother arguing... this sites full of know it alls ... can you not just join together and help people out with positive advice instead of arguing with...

Sorry john...yes the consumer unit

Think im going to get him to cone back next year and change the meter or if possible relocate it and rewire the whole place.....we are needing to redecorate anyway.....but can rewiring be done without damaging ceilings ?...we have upstairs...would rewiring mean lifting the floors .....we do have...

Guy came today ...very professional and certainly knows his stuff...its looking likely that it can be run from the separate fusebox in the garage so no need to tamper with the old one in the house other than to remove the old grey box that used to run the shower......maybe next year i will get...

The thing is ive changed every socket in the house and ran spurs with new cable and never once come accross a brittle wire....the original wire is black and red with material covering...most of the time ive needed to cut quite hard to get through the insulate

This is a better photo of the cu.....can this be upgraded without rewiring the whole house...we have never had a single light flicker or blow and every bulb in the house is led

From what im reading and not being a qualified spark in any way......wiring the bath via an rcd spur from (for example) a plug socket will provide additional protection as in the spur will trip and kill power to the bath instantly ...whilst the wire in the fuse at the meter will also pop...

I realise this has opened a can of worms....and i think it should be a case that all sellers must have up to date wiring and fuseboxes