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Thanks for the replies. I have used Soudal's Trade Roof & Gutter Sealant in the past and I recall that it was very sticky. Can I ask what might be a bit of a daft question, what approximate ratio of washing-up liquid to water would be best to mix? Would you tend to use the same amount of...

I have now removed the flush valve and have better access to the fill valve. I'll report back regarding the flush valve later on. Regarding the fill valve: There are two lines that are scribed into the inside side wall of the cistern. The cistern is currently drained of water but you can see...

I'll give it a go and see how I get on. Thanks for the responses so far.

Thanks, that's great information. I'll see if I can take the top part of the Siamp flush valve off to have a look at it inside/lower down. If I grab the body, do I literally just twist it (presumablty anti-clockwise) and it should then come off? There's no securing clips or anything like that...

I am about to use Soudal's Trade Roof & Gutter Sealant. I have used this product previously albeit a good while ago and from memory it was very sticky and it was difficult to smooth-off once I had applied it. On checking the back of the tube (which I didn't look at last time I used it...

When it fills, the water level doesn't get up anywhere near as high as the open ended pipe in the (is the part that's coloured all white in the middle of the cistern that has 'Siamp' on the top of it called the outlet valve? and is the other one that's a mixture of white and grey colours called...

How do I adjust the fill level on my cistern? I need to reduce the amount of water that's coming into the cistern after a flush as it's constantly trickling into the WC pan. See pictures of the insise of the cistern below:

Both run into a boss strap currently. The pipe connection from the wash hand basin looks similar to the grey one on the left image above. The other one from the bath has a screwed connection where the pipe joins into it and looks similar to the image below. Neither seem to be leaking from the...

So I may need to cut the pipwork a few inches away from the soil stack to allow the small section of existing pipework that's connected to the stack to be removed and to allow the boss to be fitted onto it and then reconnect the pipework using a straight connector. Is that correct? Also, if the...

I've had another look at the pipework this morning. Initially, I may just swap the two strap boss connectors at this stage as they both have slight leaks on them and then change the remainder of the pipework at some point in the near future. How easy are boss strap connectors to fit? I am...

As I mentioned, I already have some 40mm and 32mm push fit fittings and pipe readily available. Thanks for confirming that.

The existing waste pipework from my bath and wash hand basin are all in solvent weld and need replacing. The bath is 40mm and the wash hand basin is 32mm. Both connect separately into the 110mm soil pipe via strap boss connectors. I would prefer to use push fit instead of solvent weld as I...

Thanks cross thread. I topped-up the pressure to 2 bar as you suggested and tried all the different configuations of resets and power on/off's that I did last time and the result was unfortunately, still the same. I am still getting the F1 Fault Code.

Most of my PVC windows are in relatively good condition but some of the black seals on some of the opening lights are starting to perish, become brittle and fall away. Not on the window that I have photographed below. It was just the easiest window that I could photograph to use to try to show...

I’m getting an F1 Low Water Pressure Fault Code on my Ideal Logic Combi 24 boiler. I have checked the pressure gauge and it is at 1.3 bar. I have tried resetting the boiler (see below) but each time I do, I still get the F1 fault code. Even though the pressure gauge was showing 1.3 bar, I...

There was no evidence of any water or corrosion on the back of the pcb. It's been raining throughout the night where I am and inside the bellbox was bone dry. There wasn't even any condensation.

Ok thanks. I'll report back in tomorrow when I've had another look at the bellbox.

No I didn't do that. I'll have another look at it tomorrow and will release the pcb, check its back and photograph it too if I can. If I do need to replace the bellbox, will any type of bellbox be ok to fit or does it need to be a specific type or make etc?

Please see the photos below of the inside of my sounder. After removing the front cover, it didn't sound but it all looked pretty clean inside with no evidence of any water ingress that I could see. All of the cables are intact and there didn't appear to be any signs of corrosion on any of the...

Ok. I'll take some photos inside the sounder tomorrow and I'll report back then. Thanks again.