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I thought about that actually, I'm going to put the pumps further down than shown here, where there's space to access them (and the PHE further up)--there's very limited closet space so I want to try and keep the upper half completely free for linens

ended up drawing up the layout for the pipework, cause I couldn't figure out in my head how to fit it all in the airing cupboard O.O thought I'd share the result.

looks like the OP will end up taking exactly the terrible advice I suggested, until a time where it is practical to rewire and run CPC's. funny that.

yes, just because something is considered common or standard practice, doesn't mean it's right, things are constantly changing, reverting, just, some people think and experience, others just do/follow orders.

this happens more than you think, that's why I like to twist them

I'd put obstinate professionals in bold

I know that in the US, it's common to find some aluminum wiring (60's/70's) combined with copper. In the US, connector blocks with screws as used in the UK don't exist, and they use twist-on wire nuts (like in cars or the ceramic ones that used to be used in the UK). Fires often occur where...

no, I mean, in fittings that don't require an earth, why don't manufacturers provide a terminal anyway just to terminate the earth for neatness?

good luck, I don't think I should say anything anymore, I guess you can call it experience with how to communicate and extract advice from obstinate professionals, maybe it's not possible

no, but you can twist the strands together instead of crushing all the small individual strands by a pointed screw in the terminal (stranded 4/6mm cable)

I guess you're right. I think twisting prevents screws working loose from when the copper expands and contracts from heating/cooling down though (I wonder how many blackened cooker/immersion heater switches in the world have suffered from this)

okay, so the answer is or not. I'll get my screwdriver out right away and get to work.

you're like that annoying voice in those self-checkout machines aren't you

if none of the switches are earthed, i'd replace the brass ones with plastic and get some plastic screws if you're worried about it. Unless you want to rewire the whole house right now, extend the circuit to the loft lights with regular T&E as you've described and snip off the earth or put it...

http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/10230760/ it doesn't say whether these are earthed or not

I've noticed that most fittings that have those screws that go into the side of the base with a turn and secure-type thing need an earth connection. Alot of ikea lights are designed to not need an earth for some reason. Maybe have a look?

thanks, ok I get that, but wasn't the reason for twisting the cables probably to prevent a break in the ring from a lose conductor in the first place?

I speak American English