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New builds are way overpriced, I know as in all businesses the developers are there to make money but they are just way to greedy, I mean the properties I worked in ranged from £320-£500k and they were a pile of crap (when you seem them from groundworks stage to completion). They look very nice...

The B&Q kits are crap, that price is probably fair but get a couple more quotes, make sure when installed it has a double check valve, isolation point and the tap can be drained of all water when its switched off in winter (ie drainoff or backplate elbow with a street elbow facing downwards)

You are pretty much correct about them being tradesmen, house bashers more like, most only lasted a couple of days maybe a week, the only one making good money consistently was the guy who taught me as he knew what he was doing and he was a tradesmen, that was why the company paid him £200 a day...

Actually it was on price work back in 2007 and a grand a week was quite easily achievable, some of the guys were making £1500. (No I am not exaggerating at all, when you get £60 to connect a kitchen sink up which took 30mins then you can see why. Yes its easy work if you know what your doing...

The money I was paid was related to how quickly I was improving and gaining experience not just completing the NVQ's which doesn't really mean that much. So before tax started out on £150 a week, then £160, £200, £240, £280, £320, £400 then onto normal pay. This was over the three year period...

Agree with all of the above. :D

Agree with all of the above :D

Agree with all of the above.

Out of the machines you are looking at the Stanley is definately the best then Redfyre, wouldn't bother with Esse or Rayburn at all. Rayburn rely on the link with Aga and that's where the similarities end! Did you know that Aga now produce a pressure jet burner for the machine, (rather than...

Agree with the above two posts, maybe look at upgrading your controls depending on what you have currently, Honeywell CM907, ST9400 and TRV's would be a good starting block if you have nothing on the system currently, is it fully pumped at the moment?

Also go for Oil, check out OFTEC's website for running costs of different fuels. http://www.oftec.org/comparative_costs.htm If you don't go for a range cooker or go for a heat only model ie an Aga, then remember that you can get external boilers, check out Worcester's range, good pieces of...

Agreed, stick with a radiator, also go towards a Stanley they are a much better piece of kit than the Redfyre. We advice customers to bear in mind the installation costs for the flue when choosing range cookers as this can a lot more than you would think! Depending on whether you have line the...

If its just the condense that is causing an issue, you can get condense pumps to take it away or build a soak away. With regards to the flue you will have to consult the manufacturer's instructions on how far your specified boiler can go.

You get what you pay for! Have you been down to your local plumbers merchants?

Honeywell CM907, job done. Will be a straight swap, very user friendly and decent piece of kit, we use them on all our customers and everyone loves them.

Agree on the Cm927 but you won't get one for that money, do you self a favour and pay the extra money. Too many people skimp on their heating/hot water systems installing crap which fails and costs them twice anyway! (not moaning at OP but take the advice)

Do you have space for an unvented hot water cylinder and adequate incoming water main flow and pressure? If so go for this with a Vaillant/Worcester system boiler and an S plan system. Get some local Gas Safe Registered installers to pop round telling them this is what you want. For some...

Tell them you want them to quote for an S plan system, Honeywell motorised valves, Grundfos Alpha 2 pump, if you can afford new rads then you might as well go for it if yours are quite old, don't fit cheapy TRV's again Honeywell or Danfoss ones, make sure they fit an automatic bypass, and wire...

As mentioned before if your pipework is up to it then go for a sealed system BUT get a heat only boiler. So you will have expansion vessel, pump, motorised valves all separate from the boiler, much easier to work on in future.

Hi there, can anyone recommend any decent books so I can broaden my knowledge for central heating fault finding. I appreciate a lot is from experience but there surely must a few decent books out there? Thanks.