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That is akin to cleaning the house before the cleaner comes :D Let it do its job and clean the system you will get a better idea as to the general condition by the amount of C@@p it removes. and plan for future system needs accordingly. good luck

the OD of poly pipe went 17.1 / 21.3 / 26.7 / 33.5 / 42.2 [all mm] for nominal size of 10 / 15 / 20 / 25 / 32 Note its the first set of sizes that matter as the OD [outside diameter] is were the fitting makes its seal

By 'employed' do you mean a main employer? ie normal working day? whilst also doing a private job for another employer / some one else? the existing employer might have something to say about that! Having paid for the employee ticket they will own the right to refuse some else to have any...

Fubar instead of comming on to a diy forum and asking about gas work standards and best practice and regulatory standards of work, would it be a idea to get the guy you are supposedly intending to make the connections you suggest will be done on completion and ask them what is required, that...

some of the room stats today are electronic and not elec/mechanical so you may not hear a click when turning the dial. so the room stat may not be at fault!

In truth it depends. the main factor will be the size / bore of the mains supply to the hut. any group usage will affect the flow to any individual unit. but if the flow and / or pressure drops too low it should cut out for safety.

its a valid point of view "shrug" but you paddle your own canoe. You dont need to be inside to get a lung full of CO to do yourself damage ps I dont read the daily mail :roll:

You could try caravan suppliers. try a google search such as 'Boat caravan camper sink bowl stainless, small 350375' for same one on ebay shows a few options. reasonable price to.

Given the recent focus on CO deaths and other types of BBQ, How much do you value your life and those you love? If you can not get proper parts, is it time to buy a new on? ...... :roll:

Most 4" cast soil pipes have a smaller ID than modern UPVC they do make a 3-1/2" / 4" multikwick to fit cast iron. the 3-1/2" fits the Cast ID 'usually'. as noted above usually better to cut the old collar off if still fitted, at the least it makes a tideyer job

Heres a tip for young uns.... remove rad refit screws tight on wall at plaster depth, let them scim. use a metal detector [should be a std piece of kit :wink: ] hay presto you can instantly find the screw position when you return. quick scrape with flat bladed screw driver and out comes...

try transco link to charge docs>>> http://www.nationalgrid.com/NR/rdonlyres/A2A2687D-6B07-447D-A11D-F5CBFCFE4151/58350/CSCD_Dec12_Final_v2_Telnos_.pdf ignore re read and noted you have the conection.

Many online calculators while generally ok must by their nature make std assumptions as to the building / structure. Any real life deviation from the std model will result in an inaccuracy of the end result. What is the best way to calculate a rooms requirement Define the building elements...

Then you need to get the multimeter out and start checking that there is in fact 230v at the pump, and the boiler. Perhaps that loose wire was ment to be connected something as suggested by matt1e.

the picture shows the heating and water channels as on but the indicator lights don't 'seem' to be alight? or is that just the way the picture seems?

Then alter the dip switch as noted by Mr Hailsham [well spotted there] the prog will then give you the same functions as was originally there.

If your original description is correct the connection on no4 is for the pump/central heating. There would / should be a connection on no3 for boiler live supply. Your new prog will then only fire for hot water. when the heating switches the pump only will run. Note if you do in fact...

The two programmers are not compatable. Your old one had a 10 / 16 program function for gravity / fully pumped. The new one is for fully pumped. They should both have had the same backplate? or so it would seem from the instructions.

why don't you have a radiator installed in the front room. better all round heat provided it is sized correctly. no servicing need as would be required / recommended for a fire, simple with little to go wrong.

If memory serves there should also be a means of isolation to the gas and electric serving the appliance at the loft entry point. Not sure how I would classify it. Not to current standards [NCS] probably as you could turn the gas and electric off at their respective meters i guess. I also...