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Have just applied sika mb to a screeded subfloor in a Hallway of 11m2, it was initially primed with Fball Stopgap p131 after the old pine parquet blocks were taken up, floor scraped and thoroughly vacuumed. After the p131 was applied and allowed to properly dry, we then self leveled the floor...

The floor would likely have 'popped' or 'blown' even if it had been full contacted bonded in place or floated or fitted via the liquid batten method, the flood has likely also caused the expansion issues, and if the escape of water has ingressed under the floor i would suggest an urgent call to...

We put some of the Blanchon Wood Floor Environment on a oak sample board a couple of weeks ago to see how 'flat' and natural it looked alongside a portion of the board which had been lacquered (Junckers Profinish satin), we applied 3 coats of the WFE and to be fair it looked as though we hadnt...

don't waste your time and money on the small and expensive 750ml tins, its a false economy, i use Bona Novia allot, it comes in 5l & 10l cans, would recommend the 5l cans cos the 10l ones are heavy and a little awkward to use for the DIYer, Novia is a class act and does the business very well...

Has your friend had the heating cranked up on the high side?? having the heating on too high for prolonged periods can cause the wood to dry out and open up a bit hence the gaps. A humidifier would possibly help as it would put a little bit of moisture back into the atmosphere hopefully...

If ease of maintainence is important to you, i would suggest using a clear lacquer to finish, Bona products are excellent and good value for money, eg Traffic / Mega / or Novia, if you want the finish to look like it is an oiled finish go for the Matt finish (approx 20% sheen level) otherwise go...

Lecol 5500 is the best product out there for sticking down reclaimed blocks with bitumen residue still on....no question.... If you are going to stick the blocks directly onto tiles best be careful, you may have to prime the tiles with a moisture barrier as they may be porous, lecol pu280 is...

If it is a colour match to the laminate you have put down it will do the job nicely, by the look of it the trim is 35-40mm wide which should cover your expansion gap easily.....either pin it to the laminate or use a quick drying mitre glue (like super glue)

Is the floor in a busy area eg hallway or lounge ? if you apply hardwax oil it will be allot more maintainence than lacquer, re-applying at least once a year, and as its an old original floor it will look virtually the same whichever seal you apply, imho a good quality lacquer (Bona Mega or...

I've done several floors that when the h/wax oil finish has been applied the customer has decided (after choosing the finish in the first place) they want it a little darker, using morrells woodstain, i've applied it directly on top of the h/wax oil and the stain has taken correctly, then...

Go for the Beckers, its an exellent product and gives a great finish as well, i've used Parquet One and Parquet Pro, both are top notch and are straightforward to apply (if you know what you are doing) I've never used the other gear but i can't see it holding a candle to Beckers, i get 3...

Why dont you use a liquid dpm eg sika mb or lecols excellent pu280 on the bitumen, we do it on a regular basis after uplifting old block floors to seal in the residues, sika mb is a top notch product, if its a small area buy a 5kg unit, its a 2 part product, a into b and mix, a nice thick coat...

Use it at your peril, for interior wooden floors use Osmo oil, great on softwood floors as it puts alot of colour into the floor, paint pads are great for applying flooring oil, just remember to put it on as thinly as possible as it takes many hrs to dry, the osmo is probably cheaper than the...

Be careful as to the width of the solid wood you are installing on tiles, basically you are installing a floating floor, and if the boards are wider than 110mm they will be more liable to cupping than a narrower board...BE CAREFUL, keep away from the sticky backed underlay, its crap and...

Don't attempt to put in the filler mix until you have sanded the floor off to a minimum of a 60grit finish, if you don't 'flat' the floor off it will be murder to fill all the joints properly as it will probably be quite uneven. The floor will need sanding/screening after to remove the filler...

Don't forget when you fill the gaps to scrape off as much of the resin/dust mix as possible as it literally is like new wood and goes hard as nails when dry, and dries really quick also, 10-15 mins max, it will most certainly need screening/sanding off when dry otherwise will look pants when you...

I've re-stuck thousands of old, loose blocks down with lecol 5500, and while it can take a bit longer for the adhesive to fully go off, when you are doing localized block repairs the repaired area nearly always has sound adhered blocks all around them so cant move anywhere..... Would be a...

You can seal the concrete sub floor in your hallway with a product called Lecol PU280, its a liquid moisture barrier that is rollered onto the subfloor and dries in about 45 mins, it will seal in old residues and is a good adhesion promotor also, if you use lecol 5500 as your adhesive the...