Search results

1) Concrete blocks. 2) Depending on the width of the opening over doors ect a 4" concrete or box lintol should be ok. Always allow a 150mm bearing 3) You cannot render onto plaster board. 4) Render is water proof but it's not good for roof material For the roof you could try some ply...

:oops: Thanks Bahco, Should have done a search !!! Well done with the quit smoking. Keep it up..

I'm a brickie and have been building an extension to my house. I plumbed in four new radiators straight from the 22mm flow and return. One up stairs, three down. Now when I turn on the heating, all the original rads work (3 upstairs, 1 down). The new rad upstairs works, but the three new...

What are you going to do with the outside of the shed ie. paint, render. If you intend to paint or leave as is I would go for a 7N solid dense. If you are going to render then go for the cheapest solid block.

Unless you have an account Jewsons tend to be expensive.. £415 is a reasonable price for staffs As far as damage goes it's pure pott luck. If you get more than 5% damaged let the supplier know. You will always get some broken and chipped bricks

Unless you have an account Jewsons tend to be expensive.. £415 is a reasonable price for staffs As far as damage goes it's pure pott luck. If you get more than 5% damaged let the supplier know. You will always get some broken and chipped bricks

Sorry I posted a thought but I got the wrong thread :oops:

Why do you specifically want a Polish builder ?

Have to agree, pillars are a must. If the wall is to be rendered then concrete blocks would be prefered and pillars no further apart than every 3 meters. It might also be wise to include expansion joints to one side of every pillar to avoid cracks.

If you don't have a gas fire, you don't need an air brick for that reason. Although you should have at least one air brick for general ventiation to avoid dry rot, damp ect.

As a rule mobiles last me around 3 to 6 months. Then I just get another cheapy and see how long I get out of it. Even if a phone can withstand all the shock, dust, water ect sure enough one of the keys stop working or the screen goes blank. Mobiles just aren't made to last. The manufactures...

A straight forward timber frame covered in 20mm ply then tiled, if needed. The shower tray would need extra support and could be place on concrete blocks laid flat. Although carpentry's not my game, I think you'll probably get some better advice from some of the other guys here

You can reduce the air flow from air bricks but Symtons has a very good point with ventilation for a gas appliance. The air bricks in your picture are reasonably new and certainly weren't part of the original build. It would be wise to establish why they were installed before restricting them.

Only for the top layer of screed though..right.?

You only really have cheap plastic or expensive cast iron guttering. To be honest Noseall has a pretty good idea with the grease thing :idea:

Unfortunatley I do need to join the existing, which is my problem.... I actually found someone stocking new marley bold rolls £3 each....... :shock: :shock:

you can buy all in ballast which would be easier. For a floor slab 3m x 3m x 120mm this is what you need 14 bags of 25 kg cement 1.9 tonnes of ballast or 648 kg of sharp sand 1296 kg of aggregate 14 bags of 25 kg cement Noseall, We must have posted at the same time mate.. :)

Are they still on the roof... :) I only need 250.

I need to match a marley bold roll tile, apperently they've stopped making this tile now and I'm stuggling to find a tile that will interlock the weather channel properly. The Marleys I have on my house are teracotta but I'm not to bothered about a colour match so long as they are reasonably...

You could try and rod the drain yourself, you might be able to hire the Rods. Some times the drains can get blocked with tissue, ****, panty pads, condoms ect. Not a nice job...